Escapod's Knowledge Base

Proper maintenance of your trailer is one of the most important aspects of safety. A maintained trailer is a safer trailer. While the majority of maintenance can be done with standard household tools, below is a list of all recommended tools to have on hand so you can properly maintain your trailer yourself. The links are provided as general guidelines to help direct in what to look for.

• Grease Gun
• Torque wrench to 200 ft-lbs
• Standard phillips head and flathead screwdrivers
• Micro phillips head and flathead screwdrivers
• Impact driver
• ½” drive x 19mm drive thin walled deep socket
• ½” drive x 21mm socket
• ½” drive adapter for the impact driver
• Torx bit set
• 12” crescent wrench
• Floor jack (if you anticipate having to remove tires)

The following instructions are for hooking up with a straight ball coupler. If you have a fully articulating hitch, the process for hooking up is the same, but the connection is a little different. See the “Fully Articulating Hitch” section for photos of what that connection looks like.

1. With the trailer parked on a level surface and chocks placed on the galley side of the tires, use the tongue jack to raise the tongue of the trailer about 24” from the ground.
   1. Your trailer comes standard with a trailer tongue swivel jack. This has a 2,000 lb lift capacity and a 3,000 lb support capacity and provides 15” of additional lift meaning that it can raise the tongue of the trailer a total of 31” if measured from the ground under the footplate to the attachment point on the frame.
   2. Helpful Hint: If the jack does not raise the tongue enough, you can place a block of wood under the footplate to gain additional height.
2. Grease the hitch ball to ensure a smooth ride. Use a thin film of wheel bearing grease to prevent wear. Doing this each time you tow will keep things running smoothly.
3. Make sure the latch on the top of the coupler is vertical
4. Lower the coupler onto the ball hitch by cranking the jack counterclockwise. Check to ensure proper fit to your hitch ball. You want to make sure it is latched securely on the underside of the ball (not sitting on top) and that there isn’t too much play. Continue to crank until the footplate is a few inches off the ground.
   1. Helpful Hint: If you look at the ball under the coupler, you should see a piece of metal which has cupped itself under the actual ball on the trailer side. If you don’t see that, raise up the jack and try again. You can also place a finger under the coupler to feel the cupping piece - but be careful of putting fingers in pinch points.
5. Clamp down the latch on top of the coupler (pull up first if it resists), and secure with a ¼” safety pin through the latch handle.
6. Cross the chains under the hitch (twist to shorten if needed - aim for about 6” clearance).
7. Connect the wiring: Plug the 7 round plug into the vehicle – wrap cable around the tongue if necessary (you want some wiggle room but no drag) and put it through the ¼” pin for added security.
8. Check the light electrical connection to ensure the trailer lights mimic the vehicle lights. Have a second person stand behind the trailer while another person in the tow vehicle tests:
   1. brake lights illuminate when brake pedal depressed
   2. left and right turn signals
   3. hazard indicator
   4. night driving lights
      1. Physically turn your headlights on for the back trailer lights to illuminate reverse lights
9. Once the coupler is securely attached, pull the jack stand pin, rotate the jack stand 90 degrees forward so it is parallel with the tongue frame, then push the pin all the way through the top and bottom holes to lock it into place
10. Triple check pins
    1. Vehicle hitch receiver to the ball hitch
    2. On top of the coupler latch
    3. Coupler to the trailer tongue
    4. Jack stand pin - be sure it’s through the bottom as well
11. If applicable, check adjustment of the electric brakes.
12. Remove any chocks placed around the wheels and store them in the tongue box or tow vehicle.

Proper loading and load distribution is one of the keys to safe towing. When packing your TOPO2, you want cargo to be roughly evenly distributed from side to side and the total weight should not exceed the following:

• Gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR)
  • Maximum permissible weight of the trailer when fully loaded. Fully loaded includes water, accessories, gear, add-ons, etc
• Maximum load rating of tires
  • The maximum weight each tire can support safely
• Your tow vehicle’s tow capacity
  • The maximum amount your vehicle can safely pull
• Cargo carrying capacity
  • The maximum additional weight your trailer can carry. Found by subtracting the trailer dry weight from the GVWR.
• Tongue weight
  • The static downward force exerted at a vehicle-trailer coupling point when your trailer is hooked up for towing. The tongue weight is a very important number as it has a very direct impact on the ability of your vehicle to safely tow any trailer. This number can vary as it is a percentage of your total trailer weight. Ideal tongue weight should be between 10-15% of your total trailer weight.

More details about locating the weight numbers on your TOPO2 can be found in the “Frame - Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)” section.

Helpful Hint: Things to consider when loading your trailer:

• What do you want easily accessible when you get to camp? What needs to be the first unloaded, and therefore last loaded?
• What can you do before you leave to make arrival at camp smoother? What can “present you” do to help “future you”?
• Are the heaviest things able to be as close to the trailer center line and suspension as possible?
• If you are interested in the weight for your individual trailer-specific configuration, take it to a public scale to get your dry, loaded, and tongue weights.

Before taking your Escapod TOPO2 out on an adventure, it is important to ensure your tow vehicle is well maintained and equipped to handle the towing. Maintenance needs and recommendations vary from vehicle to vehicle so we recommend utilizing your specific vehicle owner’s manual for any vehicle related questions. However, we recommend using the following specifications of the TOPO2 when guiding your tow vehicle needs. Please note: the following numbers are for base TOPO2 trailers with no add-ons.

• Dry Weight: 2000 lbs.
• Tongue Weight: 250 lbs
• Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR): 2990 lbs (1356 Kg)

When choosing a tow vehicle it is important to understand weights of your add-on selections as well as individual vehicle tow capacities.

Towing a trailer of any size behind a vehicle affects the vehicle performance and requires special considerations from the driver. When towing a trailer, you will or may experience:

• Increased turning radius - This means you will need more space as your turn will be wider so you won’t hit curbs, other vehicles, or any other obstacle found on your inside radius of the turn. Restaurant drive-thrus are not a good idea.
• Increased stopping distances - when stopping, your vehicle is not only stopping itself, but also another object with its own momentum. It is good driving practice to start slowing down earlier to allow more space for the slow down to happen. Note: the optional addition of electric brakes will assist you in stopping. However, those brakes are designed to help stop the trailer and not the tow vehicle. See “Electric Brakes” for more information.
• Different vehicle handling dynamics - Your trailer is sensitive to weather conditions and steering, especially steering in windy conditions. Larger vehicles passing you while towing will also have a greater effect on the control of your vehicle.
• Slower acceleration - Remember, your vehicle engine is not only accelerating itself but also trying to accelerate additional weight. Allow more space and time for passing other vehicles due to the slower acceleration and increased length.
• Trailer Sway - If your trailer begins to move side to side behind the tow vehicle, it is called trailer sway. This may be caused by excessive swerving, wind gusts, roadway edges, the trailer’s reaction to the force created by passing trucks and buses, or improper loading or balance of cargo in the trailer.
• Road/Weather Conditions - It is good practice to remember that any outside force affecting your vehicle is magnified when towing a trailer. Be sure to use hazard blinkers if you are traveling slower through rough weather.
• Inclines/declines - When beginning long uphill climbs, pay attention to the effort exerted by your vehicle’s engine. If your TOPO2 is close to your vehicle's towing capacity, your vehicle will work harder going up hills. Be sure to use hazard lights and stay in the right lane if climbing at a slower speed than the posted limit or surrounding traffic. Use a lower gear when driving down long or steep grades. Do not ride your brakes, but rather use your brakes to gently reduce your speed then have your vehicle engine maintain the slower speed. Riding your brakes can cause them to overheat and lose efficacy. See “Electric Brakes” if your trailer is equipped with them for additional braking information.
• Ramp Angles - When hooked up, be aware of the TOPO2’s departure angle when entering or exiting any area where you will cross a ramp angle. This includes parking lots, driveways, campgrounds, designed road dips, etc. If the ramp angle is severe enough, you may “bottom out” where the vehicle hitch or tongue hits the ground before the trailer can match the angle of the vehicle. If you do hit, get the trailer on level ground with the tow vehicle and verify the security of the trailer coupler to the vehicle hitch prior to continuing on your journey.
• Backing up - Backing up while attached to a trailer requires more space and time for turning to happen. The length of the tow vehicle in relation to the length of the trailer also has an impact on the responsiveness of the trailer to turns initiated by the tow vehicle.

Helpful Hint: Practice makes perfect! Practice backing up your tow vehicle while attached to a trailer prior to adventuring. We found this article from Curt, one of our vendors, particularly helpful. But key things to remember:

• Small steering wheel movements can have big impacts but may also take longer to develop
• Turning the steering wheel clockwise makes the trailer turn toward the driver; turning the steering wheel counterclockwise makes the trailer turn toward the passenger
• Shorter trailers will turn faster and sharper than longer trailers

There are a lot of resources to help explain the joy that is backing up while towing a trailer. There is not a lot we can say that isn't said somewhere else, but we cannot say it enough: practice makes perfect! Practice backing up your tow vehicle while attached to a trailer prior to adventuring. Key things to remember:

• Small steering wheel movements can have big impacts
• Turning the steering wheel clockwise makes the trailer turn toward the driver; turning the steering wheel counterclockwise makes the trailer turn toward the passenger
• Shorter trailers will turn faster and sharper than longer trailers
  

A fully articulating hitch is an optional purchase to complement your TOPO2. This improves the towing experience as it allows the hitch to have three axes of movement and 360 degrees of rotational movement which allows the trailer and the vehicle to move in opposite directions while still maintaining a secure connection. If you are traveling over uneven terrain, a fully articulating hitch allows for more stability and security in the connection. Using a fully articulating hitch is a direct replacement of the standard 2” coupler connecting the trailer to your tow vehicle. However, as long as the coupler is compatible with a 2” trailer side receiver and your tow vehicle’s hitch receiver, you can purchase the brand of your choosing.

Regardless of what brand articulating hitch you have, you will need to properly maintain it for optimal performance. To keep your fully articulating hitch functioning properly, you will want to ensure it is properly greased annually so it can easily move in all directions

Tools Needed: Grease gun ready with bearing grease, rubber gloves, paper towels

1. Insert the full grease gun fitting over the exposed zerk on the articulating coupler
   1. We use the Lucas Oil Red N’ Tacky grease
2. Start pumping grease in until it comes out the of the bushing ends or zerk itself.
   1. This is a relatively small part so it shouldn't take a lot of grease - just a few squeezes should do the trick
3. Take a paper towel and remove any excess grease
   1. If you start pumping grease and the grease coming out is dark and dirty, keep wiping and pumping until the grease is clean.

7-Pin Round connections

All TOPO2 trailers are equipped with a 7-pin round connector to plug into your tow vehicle's driving lights. Below is a diagram of our trailer plug wiring. If your plug becomes damaged, or you need to replace it for any reason, follow the diagram to ensure that the plug is wired correctly. Disregard any color indications on the plug with the exception of the white wire. White notation on the plug should match the white wire connecting into it, then follow the diagram clockwise. The diagram below is oriented looking at the back of the connector after you have removed the black plastic cover.

The 7–pin connector plug allows your vehicle to provide power to the trailer to power lights indicating braking, turning, standard running/driving lights, reverse/backup lights as well as your electric brakes (if present). This connection can build up debris and corrosion over time; it is good practice to inspect the plug regularly. If you need to clean it, you can use a pipe cleaner sprayed with contact cleaner. If everything is hooked up and functioning correctly, the trailer lights should mimic the vehicle lights. If not, see the “Towing Troubleshooting” section.

NOTE: Not all vehicles come with a trailer/towing wiring hookup, especially if you’ve had your hitch installed aftermarket. Please double-check you have wiring that is set up for a trailer connection in the rear of your vehicle. Trailer wiring is specific to the vehicle's make and model, so the easiest way to get the right setup is to talk to your local dealership or garage.

Junction Box

The junction box is located in the front side of the tongue box and is the connection point for integrated wiring between the trailer and the tow vehicle. Below is the schematic for the wiring within the junction box. It’s helpful to understand how the junction box works in case you need to repair/lengthen/replace the electrical cord which connects the trailer to your tow vehicle through the 7-pin round connector.

(Electric Break Cables picture Place holder)

Standard Tires: General Grabber AT/x LT 265/75R16
Upgraded Tires: General Grabber X3 LT 265/70R17

The tires are the foundation of your trailer and essential components to towing and trailer safety. There are two options for a tire/wheel combination on the TOPO2. Both of which allow for the same ground footprint and overall size. The tire/wheel combination attaches to a trailer specific hub with a 6 x 5.5 bolt pattern but are not trailer specific tires. Every tire has safety and size information printed on the outside. Below is a diagram of where you can see the specific information. Note, the image is just for illustration purposes and may not be the exact tire on your TOPO2.

Lug Nuts
Your tires are attached to the hubs with six acorn cap ½”-20, 1.5” long lug nuts. They are torqued to 100 ft-lbs. It is important to check your lug nuts regularly - after the first 200 miles and/or first drive, then every 2000 miles or at minimum once per season - using a thin-walled, deep 19mm socket and a torque wrench set to 100 ft-lbs. It is important to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern (12 o’clock then 6 o’clock, 2 o’clock then 8 o’clock, 10 o’clock then 4 o’clock) to ensure the tire mounts flush and equally. Apply pressure to the torque wrench until you hear a click or double click to ensure the proper amount of torque is applied.

WARNING: Improper tire pressure can cause trailer instability. Tire blowout, loss of control, serious injury or death can ensue. Always check and correct tire pressures before towing your trailer on the road.

CAUTION: All listed tire recommendations are for when the readings are done cold

It is important to make sure that your tires are at optimal performance throughout your camping seasons. Common problems associated with poor tire performance include (but are not limited to):

• Incorrect inflation
• Overloading
• Tire imbalance
• Low tread
• Suspension misalignment
• Mismatched tires
• Improper sized tires to rim
• Road hazards

If you notice your trailer is acting funny while towing or your tires don’t look right during your pre-trip inspection, use the chart below to help diagnose any suspected issues:

Wear Pattern - Potential Cause - Potential Action

Center Wear > Over Inflation > Adjust pressure to the recommended tire PSI

Edge wear > Under inflation > Adjust pressure the recommended tire PSI

Slide wear > Loss of camber or overloading > Adjust load to ensure it does not exceed the trailer GVWR; check alignment have professional adjust as needed

Toe wear > Incorrect toe-in > Check alignment. Have a professional adjust as needed

cupping > Out of balance > Check alignment. Have a professional adjust as needed.

Flat spots > Wheel lock up and tire skidding > Avoid sudden stops when possible and adjust breaks

Prior to every trip you should check your tires for tread wear and pressure. The tire manufacturer recommends that you inflate your tires to 35 PSI. This needs to be checked and done while the tires are cold, i.e. they have not warmed up due to road friction from being driven for more than one mile in the previous three hours. In case you forget, the tire pressure recommendation can also be found on the VIN sticker (see “Frame - Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)” for more information). The PSI value on the tire is the maximum recommended PSI. It is recommended that you use a quality pressure gauge to check your tire pressure before every trip as evaluating tire pressure cannot be done very effectively visually.

Storage
If you won’t be using your trailer for a while, i.e. more than a month, it is best to fill your tires between 35 and your tire’s max PSI and check it to maintain a minimum of 35 PSI. Tires can lose anywhere from 1-3 PSI per month while sitting due to science and is it not recommended to store your Escapod with underinflated tires. Storing your Escapod on underinflated tires can lead to flat spots, uneven wear, and a poor towing experience.

The spare tire on the TOPO2 is located on the exterior of the trailer under the rear galley and nested up in a space in the frame. This is a full size spare i.e. it has the same footprint as your regularly installed tires. However, the actual wheel/tire will not match the wheel/tire combo you have selected for your TOPO2. The spare tire is a General Grabber APT 265/75R16 on a Vision Soft8 wheel. It is important to check the tire pressure of your spare tire regularly. There is nothing worse than needing to use a spare tire only to find it flat or underinflated. The tire manufacturer recommends keeping the spare at 35 PSI.

Accessing Your Spare

The spare is lowered using the same crank as the stabilizer jacks. There is an extension tube protruding from the rear frame member on the driver side.

1. Using the crank handle on the tube, lower the spare. Turn the handle counterclockwise to lower the wheel and clockwise to raise.
2. Crank until the tire is resting on the ground.
3. Continue to crank a little more to allow slack in the winch line to allow you to disconnect the tire.
4. Crawl under the trailer or reach under and slide the tire toward you and out from under the trailer if there is enough slack in the line.
5. Remove the holder from the center of the wheel - push the down, twist it up 90 degrees so it is parallel with the hoist cable and lift it out of the center wheel hole.
6. The tire that is being replaced with the spare can be placed on the spare tire winch for the remainder of the trip or until the tire/wheel can be fixed.
7. To replace the tire, reverse the above instructions - reinsert the center holder and make sure it is perpendicular to the hoist cable through the center hole on the wheel.
8. Begin to crank the winch clockwise to raise the tire.
9. Continue to crank until the tire is securely nested inside the frame opening

NOTICE: It is important to check the security of the spare tire prior to every trip. Give it a quick check and tighten the winch as needed.

The TOPO2 is equipped with two steel safety chains attached to the frame which connect to the tow vehicle so that, should the trailer become loose or disconnected from the tow vehicle, control of the trailer can still be maintained. The chains need to be attached to the frame of the tow vehicle and crossed under the tongue of the trailer. If the chains are too long, you can twist them to make them shorter to prevent dragging. Dragging chains can cause sparks which can cause fires. The chains should only allow for minimum clearance to make turns, and keep the tongue off the ground, should it disconnect from the tow vehicle.

Crossed chains with a standard straight coupler. You can twist the chains to make them shorter to prevent dragging.

WARNING: Incorrect attachment of the chains can result in serious damage to the tow vehicle and/or trailer, loss of control, serious injury or death. Attach safety chains according to proper instructions.

The following instructions are for hooking up with a straight ball coupler. If you have a fully articulating hitch, see the “Fully Articulating Hitch” section for photos of what that connection looks like.

1. With the trailer parked on a level surface and chocks placed on the galley side of the tires, use the tongue jack to raise the tongue of the trailer about 24” from the ground.
   1. Your trailer comes standard with a trailer tongue swivel jack. This has a 2,000 lb lift capacity and a 3,000 lb support capacity and provides 15” of additional lift meaning that it can raise the tongue of the trailer a total of 31” if measured from the ground under the footplate to the attachment point on the frame.
2. Grease the hitch ball to ensure a smooth ride. Use a thin film of wheel bearing grease to prevent wear. Doing this each time you tow will keep things running smoothly.
3. Make sure the latch on the top of the coupler is vertical.
4. Lower the coupler onto the ball hitch by cranking the jack counterclockwise. Check to ensure proper fit to your hitch ball. You want to make sure it is latched securely on the underside of the ball (not sitting on top) and that there isn’t too much play. Continue to crank until the footplate is a few inches off the ground.
5. Clamp down the latch on top of the coupler (pull up first if it resists), and secure with a ¼” safety pin through the latch handle.
6. Cross the chains under the hitch (twist to shorten if needed - aim for about 6” clearance)
7. Connect the wiring: Plug the 7 round plug into the vehicle – wrap cable around the tongue if necessary (you want some wiggle room but no drag) and put it through the ¼” pin for added security.
8. Check the light electrical connection to ensure the trailer lights mimic the vehicle lights. Have a second person stand behind the trailer while another person in the tow vehicle tests:
   1. brake lights illuminate when brake pedal depressed
   2. left and right turn signals
   3. hazard indicator
   4. night driving lights
      1. Physically turn your headlights on for the back trailer lights to illuminate reverse lights
9. Once the coupler is securely attached, pull the jack stand pin, rotate the jack stand 90 degrees forward so it is parallel with the tongue frame, then push the pin all the way through the top and bottom holes to lock it into place
10. Triple check pins
    1. Vehicle hitch receiver to the ball hitch
    2. On top of the coupler latch
    3. Coupler to the trailer tongue
    4. Jack stand pin - be sure it’s through the bottom as well
11. If applicable, check adjustment of the electric brakes (see Towing - Electric Brakes).
12. Remove any chocks placed around the wheels and store them in the tongue box or tow vehicle.

Helpful Hint: If you look at the ball under the coupler, you should see a piece of metal which has cupped itself under the actual ball on the trailer side. If you don’t see that, raise up the jack and try again. You can also place a finger under the coupler to feel the cupping piece - but be careful of putting fingers in pinch points.

Before you embark on your adventure, you want to do a check of the trailer itself to make sure it is good to go. There are a couple of things which should be checked prior to hooking up as problems here can prevent an adventure. All other things can be checked after hooking up as part of a pre-departure checklist.

Check Prior to Hooking Up

• Visual check of suspension and alignment (see Suspension)
• Check tire tread and pressure (see Tire Maintenance

Check Prior to Departing

• Ensure the propane tank is closed and secured for travel
• Do a 360° around the trailer to ensure everything is secure & ready - Awning zipped up, anything attached to the roof racks is locked/secure, spare tire (if present) is tight, solar panel is secured and if added, locked.
• Check levels of all fluids and gasses - propane and water as applicable
• Lock: Doors, Hatch, Tongue box,
• Close: Windows, Fan, Water fill port, NOCO port, Sink drain port
• Turn off: all lights, Truma, fan, A/C (if present), water pump
• Secure gear in cabin, galley, tongue box
• Make sure all drawer slides, drawers, and cabinets are closed and latched
• Rear stabilizers are up, retracted, and locked into place
• Once hooked up, tongue jack needs to be pivoted up and secured completely through with the hitch pin
  
  You are now all hooked up and ready to go on an adventure.
  

Towing Troubleshooting:

Problem - Potential Cause > Potential Solution

Driving lights not working on trailer

• Plug not inserted in vehicle correctly > Remove plug from vehicle, inspect connections for corrosion or debris, clean out if needed, then securely reinsert
• Vehicle fuse blown > Check and replace vehicle fuses
• Connections is 7-way have loosened > Remove the black plastic case from the 7-pin round connector. Gently pull on and check the security of the wire connections. Reconnect or tighten the connector screws as needed.

Electric brakes not working

• Brake controller configuration > Check brake controller instruction manual, ensure 7-way plug is connected securely and properly to vehicle and brake controller, adjust gain on the controller
• Manually adjust brakes > See instructions on your brake controller for manually adjusting your electric brakes
• Brake shoes deteriorated > Check and replace brake shoes

Low tire pressure

• Normal deflating > Fill tire to 35 PSI
• Damage to tire > Inspect tire for objects puncturing it or allowing air to escape. If none, fill tire to 35 PSI and monitor.

You have arrived at your camping destination, hooray! Now it is time to unhook your trailer and get settled. Use your tow vehicle to position the TOPO2 where you want to set up prior to disconnecting. Try to find a spot that is as level as possible and free of excessive debris. Your Escapod comes equipped with a tongue jack and two rear stabilizers. Note: The rear stabilizers are for stabilization only! They are not designed to hold the weight of your trailer in isolation. This can lead to the bending of the pins making the legs ineffective and unusable. Damage to the stabilizers by using them in a manner in which they were not designed is not covered under warranty.

Camping Tip: The TOPO2 is designed to go off road or let you explore off the beaten bath. However with that ability comes responsibility. Don’t be that person to go into nature and leave it worse than you found it. We have partnered with Tread Lightly! and strongly suggest you follow their Tread Principles when you are camping or traveling away from established campgrounds.

• Travel Responsibility
• Respect the Rights of Others
• Educate Yourself
• Avoid Sensitive Areas
• Do Your Part

Unhooking your trailer is easy. Simply reverse the hook up instructions:

1. Place chocks behind the wheels. The ultimate safety is to place chocks on both sides of each wheel, but one set should be sufficient.
   1. If the ground is not level and tilts the tongue down, place the chocks on the tongue side of the wheels, if the ground tilts the tongue up, place the chocks on the galley side of the wheels. If the ground is relatively flat, place the chocks on the galley side of the wheels
2. Remove the pin from the swivel tongue jack and pivot it down 90 degrees then reinsert the pin through the top and bottom.
3. Crank the footplate down (spin it clockwise) until it just barely touches the ground.
4. Unplug the electrical connection from the vehicle and move cord out of the way
5. Remove the ¼” hitch pin from the top of the coupler (or remove the pull out pin from the side of the fully articulating hitch by first removing the cotter pin and pulling straight out.)
6. Pull up on the coupler lever to release the ball latching mechanism.
   1. Helpful Hint: Replace the hitch pin to the coupler as soon as you release the latch under the ball so you don’t lose it.
7. Continue to raise the tongue jack so you can release the coupler from the ball
   1. If the ball doesn’t release, you can wiggle the trailer and coupler so it will release. Keep cranking until this happens.
8. Unhook the chains from the tow vehicle and move them aside
   1. Helpful Hint: You can re-hook the chains around the frame of the trailer for safe keeping
9. Once everything has been disconnected, move the tow vehicle forward to clear it from the tongue.
   1. Helpful Hint: For added security, remove the coupler and place it in a secure location and insert a locking hitch pin through the hitch pin hole on the tongue if/when you leave camp. This prevents someone from coming by and simply hooking up your trailer with their own coupler and driving away if you are gone.

Helpful Hint: Replace the hitch pin to the coupler as soon as you release the latch under the ball so you don’t lose it.

Helpful Hint: You can re-hook the chains around the frame of the trailer for safe keeping.

Helpful Hint: For added security, remove the coupler and place it in a secure location and insert a locking hitch pin through the hitch pin hole on the tongue if/when you leave camp. This prevents someone from coming by and simply hooking up your trailer with their own coupler and driving away if you are gone.

Once your TOPO2 is disconnected from your vehicle, you will want to stabilize your trailer.

1. Lower/rise the tongue jack so that the trailer is level. If you have rock rails, visually look to see they are parallel to the ground.
2. Lower the back stabilizers.
   1. Standing at the side of the trailer, pull the black handle of the stabilizer, located behind the rear side receiver tube, straight out (parallel to the ground) to release the leg down.
   2. The leg will swivel down and latch into place slightly above the ground.
      1. Note: There are two latch points within the 90 degrees from the frame to the ground. Be sure to latch in the second one, closest to the ground. If the leg will not latch, take the hand crank and turn it clockwise to slightly raise the adjustable portion of the leg allowing more space between the stabilizer and the ground.
   3. Once latched into place, take the hand crank and insert it on the hex nut through the opening on the handle and crank it clockwise to lower the adjustable part of the leg. Crank until the black footplate is firmly compressed onto the ground.
   4. IMPORTANT: The rear stabilizers are designed for stabilization purposes only. Do not use them as any type of leveling or jack to raise your trailer off the ground. Do your best to park your trailer on as level ground as possible.

Helpful Hint: Be sure to lubricate the stabilizer legs regularly to ensure proper functionality. They have a tendency to stick or be difficult to release, particularly in colder temperatures.

If the rear stabilizer handle won't pull out fully there are a couple of things that could be happening:

1. New component stickiness - Pull a bit harder and should release, Lubricate with WD-40 if desired.
2. Weather or debris build up preventing handle from releasing - Pull a bit harder and should release, Lubricate with WD-40 if desired.
3. Bent pins - If the stabilizer was used to support trailer weight, it was used as a strapping point, or if it was hit extremely hard from the side, the pins allowing it to release, pivot, and lock into place can bend. You will need to replace the entire stabilizer leg. The means of damage will dictate if this is a warranty repair. Contact [email protected] for further evaluation.
4. Defective part - If all above attempts fail, you may have a defective part. Contact [email protected] for further evaluation.

The TOPO2 comes standard with a 6.5’ long Roam Adventure Co awning. The total dimensions of this awning is 6.5’ long and 8’ deep when extended. You can also have an optional second awning installed on the opposite side of the trailer. Regardless of how many awnings you have, the set up is the same. Check out this video from Roam, illustrating the setup process.

Quick Set-up

1. Unzip the cover and open the Velcro straps so you can unroll the awning
   1. Note: The awning should unroll from the bottom
2. After fully extending the awning. lower the legs from the end of the awning - these are telescoping legs - lefty-loosey, righty-tighty.
   1. Note: Be careful not to over tighten the legs
   2. This is where having two people is helpful. One person holds the awning out and the other person gets the legs set.
3. Once the legs are down, hinge out the side support arms from the vehicle side of the awning.
4. These arms are telescoping as well, so extend out as far as you need so you can insert the pin into the hole at the top of the legs. Tighten as necessary - be careful not to overtighten!
5. Secure the awning material to the support arms with the velcro straps
6. Once set up, be sure to stake the awning down with the cords at the corners
   1. The guy lines can either go straight out from the awning (perpendicular to the trailer) or go to the sides of the awning (parallel to the trailer).

Helpful Hints:

• To keep the zipper functioning properly, be sure to lubricate it as part of your standard maintenance. We recommend E-Z Snap Zipper & Snap Lubricant
• Avoid pinching and potentially tearing the fabric by zipping the cover up too quickly
• Setting up the awning with one person is possible, but it is easier with two.
• Make sure to always tie down your awning with the guy lines
• In severe weather (especially high winds) it is best to take down the awning to prevent damage - damages caused by weather are not covered under any warranty
• Avoid rain or snow build up by lowering your awning legs to create a means of runoff.
• If you leave camp it is best practice to take down your awning to prevent damage from wind or other weather conditions while you are gone.

Warranty

The awning (and all Roam products) are not covered under the Escapod warranty, rather the individual component warranty provided by Roam unless the damage was caused by improper installation by the Escapod team. If you have a problem with the functionality your awning, reach out to Roam customer service - Roam Warranty.

Awning Annex Room (Optional)

The Roam awning is compatible with the standard Roam Awning Room with the 6.5’ x 8’ dimensions. Check out the video here on how to set up the room.

Quick Set-up

1. Take the awning room out of the storage bag, lay it on the ground and unfold it.
2. Locate the side without a zipper as this is the back of the room and will be the side closest to the trailer.
3. Take the back side of the room and carefully slide it into the extrusion channel on the trailer side of the awning
4. Find the opposite side and completely unzip the top piece so you can slide it into the extrusion channel on the opposite side of the awning.
   1. The zipper should be closest to the trailer and the flap should be facing out or away from the trailer.
5. Take the awning room and reattach it with the zipper that is now in the front of the awning.
   1. Unzipping this piece from the annex and sliding it into the extrusion channel on the awning makes the installation process smoother.
6. Attach the support velcro straps on the support arms then attach the support velcro straps down the legs
7. Stake down your awning room once it is installed.

Warranty

The awning room (and all Roam products) are not covered under the Escapod warranty, rather the individual component warranty provided by Roam. If you have a problem with the functionality of your awning room, reach out to Roam customer service - Roam Warranty.

Rooftop Tent Set-Up (Optional)

Escapod offers the iKamper Skycamp and Skycamp Mini as an optional addition to your TOPO2. Escapod cannot guarantee compatibility nor warranty any damages resulting from the installation of other tents not purchased through Escapod. Refer to your individual tent owners manual for setup or installation, if added aftermarket. If you purchased an iKamper with your TOPO2, this video outlines setup and this video outlines breakdown.

Setup Considerations

• Make sure there is enough head room above your tent/trailer to facilitate opening and set up. Don’t park your TOPO2 under a tree with low branches that can get in the way.
• Make sure the ground below the ladder is free of debris and obstacles to allow for a steady means of climbing

Helpful Hints:

• The TOPO2 is 81” from the top of the Thule bars to the ground. If you add a tent, that increases the height and if you have an Air Conditioning unit in addition to the tent, that makes it even taller. Make sure your garage or storage space is tall enough to accommodate the height or you are able to make other arrangements to lower the trailer if needed.
• Taking a rooftop tent on and off a trailer is a multi-person job as they can weigh multiple hundred pounds, unless you purchase a ceiling hoist solution. This article from iKamper explains storage options of your iKamper RTT if you wish to remove it from your trailer.

Warranty

Any installed rooftop tent is not covered under the Escapod warranty, rather the individual component warranty provided by the tent manufacturer, unless the damage was due to improper initial installation by the Escapod team. If you have a problem with the functionality of your rooftop tent, reach out to your manufacturer’s customer service - iKamper Customer Service.

Problem - Potential Cause > Solution

Stabilizer handle won't pull out fully

• New component stickiness > Pull a bit harder a few times and it should release. Lubricate with WD-40 if desired
• Weather or debris build up preventing handle from releasing > Pull a bit harder a few times and it should release. Lubricate with WD-40 if desired
• Bent Pins > If the stabilizer was used to support trailer weight, it was used as a strapping point, or if it was hit extremely hard from the side, the pins allowing it to release, pivot, and lock into place can bend. You will need to replace the entire stabilizer leg. The means of damage will dictate if this is a warranty repair. Contact [email protected] for further evaluation.
• Defective Part > If all above attempts fail, you may have a defective part. Contact [email protected] for further evaluation.

Spindle Bolts - 180 foot-pounds

Upper Shock Bolt - 60 foot- pounds

Lower Shock Bolt - 60 foot - pounds

Eccentric Bolt - 130 foot -pounds

The Escapod TOPO2 frame is made of 2” x 1” laser cut tube steel that has been hot-dip galvanized to add durability and rust protection. The molded fiberglass floor then bolts directly onto the frame, increasing strength and stability without adding unnecessary weight. The TOPO2 comes standard with bolted on side receiver tubes, fender steps, and structural coated fenders with integrated table mounts

Every TOPO2 is assigned a unique vehicle identification number (VIN). This number is used to register your trailer and provide key information. Your VIN can be located on a sticker which is placed on the driver side of the trailer under the tongue box as well as on the top of the junction box in the tongue box. If the frame VIN sticker becomes damaged or lost, contact [email protected] to get a replacement printed. Below is an example of the frame VIN sticker and the data is not representative of your TOPO2.

Next to the VIN sticker is the tire and loading information sticker. This provides key information about the tires. NOTE: This information does not take into consideration the optional tire upgrade measurements, although the recommended PSI is the same.

The fenders on the TOPO2 are laser cut steel and bent prior to welding then covered with a durable bed-liner for increased protection. They are strong enough to hold 250 lbs - so you can use it as a step if needed. Both fenders also have integrated laser cutouts to allow for the table to be mounted on either side of the trailer. See “Galley - Table” for table set up instructions.

The frame is made of galvanized tube steel which is incredibly durable. You shouldn’t need to do anything special for the frame itself besides making sure it is cleaned at least once per season, more if you are traveling during the winter where road salt will attach the frame. It is good practice to not let road salt sit too long on your TOPO2, or your tow vehicle for that matter. Cleaning is as easy as spraying it down with a pressure washer on a low setting with gentle vehicle soap if it is extra grimy.

The other area of frame maintenance is to make sure all the bolt-on accessories are maintaining their tightness on all bolts. The following bolts should be visually and physically checked annually and after any unusually rough trips. These bolts do not have a specific torque rating, but need to be tight by all reasonable standards. All torque critical fasteners have been marked with enamel paint from the Escapod production facility as a marker that the fastener has been properly installed, torqued, and inspected. If this torque seal is broken or smeared, please contact Service and Warranty ([email protected]).

• Rear Hitch Receiver (Optional)
• Rock Rails (Optional)
• Rear Stabilizers
• Fenders
• Fender Steps
• Side Receiver Tubes
• Frame to Floor Bolts
• Wheel Lug Nut

WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TORQUE OR CHECK THE TORQUE OF THE FASTENERS ATTACHING THE STEEL FRAME TO THE FIBERGLASS FLOOR. IF THERE IS A CONCERN THAT A FASTENER HAS LOOSENED, CHECK IF THE ENAMEL TORQUE STRIPE HAS BEEN CRACKED. CONTACT ESCAPOD SUPPORT FOR FURTHER CLARIFICATION.

ANY TAMPERING, ADJUSTING, OR ALTERING OF THESE FASTENERS IS A VERY BAD IDEA AND COULD UNINTENTIONALLY COMPROMISE THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE FIBERGLASS SHELL AND VOID THE OVERALL STRUCTURAL WARRANTY ON THE BODY.

An optional bolt-on accessory, the rock rails are laser cut and hot-dipped galvanized steel. These provide additional protection to the frame and body as well as provide additional stepping points to access the roof of the trailer. The rock rails can support 300 lbs. of static weight.

Maintenance

Make sure they are cleaned yearly of road debris build up and road salt if driving in the winter and make sure the bolts are visually checked for proper torquing annually.

An optional bolt-on accessory is the rear hitch receiver. This is made of hot-dipped galvanized steel tube and plate. The hitch receiver accepts a 2” square insert and locks with a ⅝” hitch pin. The rear hitch receiver’s load capacity is 250 lbs. at 18” from the end of the rear hitch receiver.

Helpful Hint: Remember the further the distance away from the end of the hitch receiver to your load, the more force the hitch is going to experience. In general, be sure to load your hitch receiver with the heaviest stuff closest to the hatch and lighter stuff farther away.

Maintenance

Make sure they are cleaned yearly of road debris build up and road salt if driving in the winter and make sure the bolts are visually checked for proper torquing annually.

The Escapod Freeride suspension is a steel trailing arm style suspension with a pre-loaded spring and integrated shock managed compression and rebound. Damped travel of up to 4.5" of independent movement on each wheel.

CAUTION: This suspension system performs incredibly well when maintained, but improper maintenance and/or neglect can lead to performance and safety issues that may not be covered under warranty.

Maintenance

Besides the annual visual checking of bolts, described in the suspension alignment section, the only part specific maintenance required for the independent arms is the annual greasing of the bushings which allow the arms to move up and down smoothly.

Tools Needed: Grease gun ready with bearing grease, rubber gloves, paper towels

1. After securing the trailer with wheel chocks, crouch down and locate the small yellow zerk (a small metal fitting through which grease and lubrication can be added to mechanical systems) on each arm of the individual trailing arms. There should be one zerk per bushing or two zerks per arm.
2. Insert the full grease gun fitting over the exposed zerk
3. We use the Lucas Oil Red N’ Tacky grease
4. Start pumping grease in until it comes out the of the bushing ends or zerk itself
5. Take a paper towel and remove any excess grease
6. If you start pumping grease and the grease coming out is dark and dirty, keep wiping and pumping until the grease is clean.

Item - Function Required > Frequency

• Suspension Alignment - Visually inspect for wheel straightness > Every Use
• Suspension Parts - Visual inspection for bending and wear > Every use
• Suspension Shock Bolts - Visually inspect for loose fasteners* > 6-12 Months or 6,000 Miles
• Suspension Eccentric Bolts - Visually inspect for loose fasteners > as needed
• Suspension Spindle Bolts - Visually inspect for loose fasteners* > as needed
• Extreme Duty Bushings - Pump grease into zerk fitting**. Bushings are an internal component and not visible from the outside > 6-12 Months or 6,000 Miles
• Springs - Inspect for wear, loss of ride height. From inside of upper spring cup to inside of lower spring cup should be approximately 8” when trailer is unloaded. > 6-12 Months or 6,000 Miles
• Electric Brakes - Test that they are operational > Every use
• Trailer Brake Wiring - visually inspect wiring for bare spots, fray, etc. > Every use
• Hub/Drum - Visually inspect for abnormal wear or scoring, replace as needed. The hub (6) is an internal component of the drum (7). The photo provided is the components for electric brakes. Non-electric brakes are located in the same spot. Replace grease in the hub via zerk** > 6-12 Months or 6,000 Miles
• Tire Condition - Visually inspect for cuts, wear, bulging, screws/nails, etc. Replace/repair as needed if damaged. > Every use
• Wheels - Inspect for cracks, dents, or distortion > 6-12 Months or 6,000 Miles
• Wheel Lug Nuts - Tighten to 100 ft/lbs. > 6-12 Months or 6,000 Miles
• Tire Pressure - Check tires are inflated to 35 PSI > Every use

Time recommendations is the amount of time the trailer is in active use. It does not include storage periods. It should go without saying but the more you use your trailer, the more you are going to want to check stuff. All of the above checks should be performed after significantly long periods of storage or lack of use.

* See Frame Maintenance and Suspension Alignment Section for relevant torque ratings

** See Greasing Arm Bushings and Hubs/Drums section for greasing instructions

Alignment of current freeride suspension consists of loosening and turning eccentric bolts in order to adjust the Toe and Camber. Escapod recommends this maintenance to be done at a professional shop or in house with Escapod Trailers. There should be an orange torque seal on every bolt indicating that it adhered to factory specifications. If that seal is intact - it is not broken or there is no smearing on the top or bottom of the bolt - then you are good to go. If it is broken or there is smearing, there is a potential the bolt has loosened and you should contact Service and Warranty. We also encourage regular visual inspections of alignment.

Quick Alignment Check

1. Visually Inspect Alignment - It is a good idea to build a habit of visually inspecting your Escapod before and after every trip. A quick pre and post-trip inspection is your first line of defense in combating time-consuming and sometimes costly repairs.
   1. Standing at the front of the trailer looking down the side, line your sight up with the outside edge of the fender.
   2. Looking down the edge of the fender, you are looking to see if the outside edge on your sidewall is in line with the straightness of the wall.
   3. If it appears that your tire is out of alignment, follow the process outlined in step 3.
2. Inspect Tire for Uneven Wear - The tread should be evenly worn across the tire tread pattern. Refer to the tire wear pattern chart in the “Towing - Tire Maintenance” section. If tire tread is worn more on one side of the tire than the other, there may be an issue with alignment.
   1. If it appears that your tire is out of alignment, follow the process outlined in step 3.
3. Measure The Toe-Angle - We need to get a measurement from the sidewall of your trailer to the outside edge of your tire in both the front and rear of the tire.
   1. What you need:
      1. Yardstick or straight edge (must be rigid & stiff for accuracy)
      2. Tape measure
   2. Place a straight edge along the outside of the tire holding it level, so that the yardstick extends past the rear & front of the tire. Make sure the straight edge does not bend which will skew the measurements. You will hold the yardstick firm against the tire. Make sure the stick is pressing against level parts of the tire.
   3. Using a tape measure, measure from the sidewall of the trailer to the edge of the yardstick on the rear of the tire to determine Value A.
   4. Without moving the yardstick, now measure from the sidewall of the trailer to the edge of the yardstick in front of the tire to determine Value B.
   5. Use this formula: A - B = C to find your value for C (also known as the “toe”). C should equal a value between 0 and ⅛”. C should never be a negative number.
   6. If the measurements are outside the acceptable range, service will be needed to bring alignment back into specification.

As mentioned previously, there should be orange torque stripes on every bolt indicating that it adhered to factory specifications. If that seal is intact - it is not broken or there is no smearing on the top or bottom of the bolt - then you are good to go. If it is broken or there is smearing, there is a potential the bolt has loosened and you should have them checked. The other instance when you should have your suspension bolts checked is when your tires are out of alignment. In short, have the bolts checked to the specifications below if the torque seal is smeared and/or the tires are out of alignment per the quick alignment check outlined above. Please reach out to [email protected] for further instructions if you need to check these bolts.

Fastener > Torque Spec. > Total Bolts > Socket Size

Spindle Bolts > 180 foot-pounds > 8 - 4 on each side > 15/16”

Upper Shock Bolt > 60 foot-pounds > 2 - 1 on each side > 15/16”

Lower Shock Bolt > 60 foot-pounds > 2 - 1 on each side > 15/16”

Eccentric Bolt > 130 foot-pounds > 4 - 2 on each side > 21mm

Your TOPO2 is equipped with either self-adjusting electric brake hubs and drums (see “Electric Brakes” section for more information) or standard trailer hubs with a 6 x 5.5 lug pattern. This means there are 6 studs protruding from them to secure the wheel and the diameter of the circle of studs is 5.5”.

Maintenance

Just like any other moving part of your trailer, it is important to keep the wheel bearings clean and well lubricated. We recommend replacing the grease in your wheel bearings every 6000 miles or once per year, whichever comes first.

Replacing the Grease in Your Wheel Bearings:

Tools Needed: Grease Gun ready with bearing grease, rubber gloves, paper towels

1. Remove the hubcap, if present, exposing the EZ Lube fitting
2. Remove the rubber dust cover which will expose your grease fitting (aka zerk)
3. Insert the full grease gun fitting over the exposed zerk
   1. We use the Lucas Oil Red N’ Tacky grease
4. Start pumping grease in until it comes out the end of your bearing
5. Take a paper towel and remove any excess grease
   1. If you start pumping grease and the grease coming out is dark and dirty, keep wiping and pumping until the grease coming out is clean.
6. Replace the EZ Lube rubber fitting over the zerk and hub cap, if present.

Helpful Hint: Watch our Getting Your Rig Adventure Ready video for a visual walkthrough of the above instructions.

Tire chocks, mallet, maintenance tools, hand crank, camp chairs, awning annex room, jerry can, water hoses, small step ladder, step stool, or firewood.

The TOPO2 is composed of a single-piece fiberglass body with recycled PET insulating core. It is attached to the frame by a single piece fiberglass floor (which is permanently bonded to the body in the manufacturing process). This means that there are no seams through which water can leak into the trailer and it retains heat very efficiently. The body is designed to be durable and keep up with your off-road adventures. However, it is not indestructible.

Paint

We offer a 5-year warranty on the paint of your trailer. See more details in the warranty section. For trailers built starting February 2023, we transitioned from a more traditional automotive paint formula to a more durable, color tinted Raptor Liner by UPOL. We do stand behind the quality of our paint to give you a great looking trailer. However, there are limitations against what the paint can handle. When towing, specifically off pavement, make sure that your tow vehicle is equipped with mud flaps to reduce the amount of debris flying up and potentially hitting your TOPO2. The tread on your tow vehicle’s tires also has a direct correlation to the amount of debris flying up. The more aggressive your tire tread, the more debris can be kicked up, increasing the risk for damage.

Helpful Hint: Go slow when you are towing on loose or gravel terrain. This will reduce the amount of debris potentially hitting your trailer and it will allow you to see that wild animal standing over yonder. Enjoy the drive and stay on the trails, as traveling off road will not earn you any land speed records.

If you do want to do touch ups on your trailer, contact [email protected] to request your specific paint color code for best matching.

Every TOPO2 comes standard with a fully integrated Thule roof rack system with 69” Probars with a 220lb static load capacity. Please refer to the Thule documentation found at thule.com for installing additional roof storage or sleeping solutions aftermarket.

NOTE: If you have an air conditioning unit and you wish to put a rooftop tent or rooftop basket/platform on your TOPO2, you will need to increase the clearance above the air conditioner beyond what the bars alone provide. Failure to provide the air conditioner adequate top clearance will reduce the efficiency of the unit and may result in damage that is not covered under warranty. Contact [email protected] if you need to purchase tent mounting brackets or have any questions about this specific configuration.

The TOPO2 comes standard with two LED exterior lights mounted to the outside next to each door. The switch for these lights is located in the center of the cabin cabinet structure on the second to the bottom toggle switch labeled “EXT.” You are unable to turn on just one porch light at a time.

Maintenance

This body is designed to withstand the elements. Proper maintenance will prolong the life of your TOPO2, providing more opportunity for adventures in the future.

Washing/Cleaning

We recommend regular washings of the exterior to remove build up of road debris, road chemicals and salt if you camp by the ocean frequently to prevent corrosion, staining or chemical spotting. We do not recommend taking your TOPO2 through the automatic car wash, but a pressure washer on a low setting with a gentle soap will do just fine. We use Simple Green for the majority of our cleaning needs.

Repairs

Fiberglass is designed to be repaired by a professional fiberglass repair facility. Repairs to any fiberglass components need to be coordinated through Escapod Service and Warranty ([email protected]; 435-565-6329). Any unauthorized repair/rework/alterations made to fiberglass components may void the warranty.

Your tongue box is an integrated part of the body mold, providing added storage without added seams. It is important to remember, however, that the tongue box is not completely sealed away from the rest of the trailer. Liquid, gasses and smells can and will travel from the tongue box into the cabin. What is located inside your tongue box:

• Molded plastic bottom for easy clean up
• 11 lb propane tank with regulator - secured with a cinch strap
• L-track with four (4) anchors for versatile tie down points
• Straight ball coupler - if you have the optional fully articulating hitch installed on your vehicle
• Hand crank for the rear stabilizers and optional spare tire
• Junction box for trailer integrated wiring (See Towing - Junction Box for schematic)
• Mounted LED light with toggle switch

CAUTION: Because the propane tank is located within the enclosed space of the tongue box, we have installed multiple points for ventilation. Be sure to not block these vents. See “Cooking/Propane - General Propane Safety” for photos of vent locations.

Camping Tip: The tongue box was designed to be a utility space or have a utilitarian function. It is a great place to store anything that you want easy access to or could get the inside of your trailer dirtier than you may like. Think of it as the place to put the first things you want to get out and the last things you want to put away. Great things to store in your tongue box:

• Tire chocks
• Mallet/Maintenance tools/Hand crank
• Camp chairs
• Awning annex room (optional)
• Jerry cans
• Water hoses - gray water and potable
• Small step ladder/step stool
• Firewood

To open/close your stargazer:

1. Push in the red button and pivot each of the five handles 90 degrees so the handles are all pointing toward the center of the window and the red button clicks back up
   1. Hint: Be careful of rings and other finger adornments scratching the stargazer.
2. Gently push the window fully open, hold it in place, and twist the knobs on both struts clockwise to lock it into place.
   1. Note: Currently, the window can either be fully open, half-open, or closed, the struts were not designed to have the stargazer just cracked open.
3. To close the window, hold it open while you twist the strut knobs counterclockwise to loosen
4. Gently lower the window
5. Push the red button down and twist back the handles 90 degrees so the handles are parallel to the window frame.
   1. Make sure the tabs on the handles slide between the two channels to ensure a secure lock.

The cabin structures of the TOPO2 are composed of HDPE and lightweight honeycomb composite which have been CNC cut with a mortise & tenon construction. This means that it is lightweight, strong, and easy to clean. It is finished with a soft-touch headliner and prefinished birch plywood for the cabinet doors and accent panels. There are two (2) over door inset LED lights which are dimmable. For more information about specific utility systems that are accessible by and impact the comfort of the cabin, see either the “Electrical System” or “Cooling/Ventilation” sections respectively.

Behind the headboard is an additional 5 cubic feet of storage space. It has a molded plastic liner for ease of cleaning and durability. The doors hinge independently and you can open each side independently and are cut from prefinished birch plywood.

There are two (2) nightstands, one on each side, that each come equipped with a square cut out cup holder, wireless charging dock, dual plug USB charger, as well as providing a doorless opening for additional storage. The nightstands are composed entirely of HDPE.

Every TOPO2 comes standard with a queen size 60” x 80” x 6” poly-cotton covered, high density foam mattress. It is placed directly on the floor which is covered with mold resistant, heavy duty outdoor carpet.

The cabin cabinet shelves are made of composite honeycomb. The cabinet doors are made of prefinished birch plywood. Because the wood is a natural product, there may be imperfections which have been filled prior to prefinishing or inconsistencies in the grain pattern. This is completely normal and natural.

There are five closed door cabinets in the cabin: three on top and two smaller ones. To open the top cabinets, simply push in the center of the black handle so it pops out then twist to the right or left to release the latch and pull to open. To close, you can either twist and release again or you can just push it closed (there will be a rapid clicking sound, that’s okay) then push back in the center of the latch to lock it.

The smaller doors on the bottom close magnetically. The two smaller doors combined with the center larger door also assemble to create a laptop stand. To assemble the laptop stand:

1. Open the two smaller doors to perpendicular to the cabinet face
2. Open the center cabinet door enough to gently be placed on the open lower doors
3. The stand is attached magnetically.
4. To put it away, remove anything on the stand first, then reverse the assembly.

The smaller shelf is also the home to many of your electrical controls. See the “Electrical

System” section for further details, but in a nutshell, if you are sitting with your back against the headboard you should see the following from left to right (passenger to driver):

• Passenger side open cubby with GFCI Electrical outlet (1)
• Closable passenger side cabinet (2)
• SiMarine systems monitor and light switches (3)
  • Inv (Inverter)
  • Int (Interior Lights)
  • Ext (Exterior Lights)
  • RR (External Rock Rail/Frame Lights)
• Closable driver side cabinet (4) contains your battery cutoff switch (4A), solar panel controller (4B), Truma control panel (4C)
• Empty driver side cubby (5)

On each side of the cabin structure to the wall and between the mattress and the doors is an additional 4” of space. These spaces are your mudrooms and coat closets. The area under the vents can keep dirty shoes away from your bedding and both sides of the closet contain two coat hooks. It is also designed to allow you to sit and remove dirty shoes before fully getting into the cabin.

The giant 2.5’ x 5’ stargazer window is the jewel of the cabin. It is made of shatter-resistant polycarbonate allowing for clear visibility and durability.

To open/close your stargazer:

1. Push in the red button and pivot each of the five handles 90 degrees so the handles are all pointing toward the center of the window and the red button clicks back up
   1. Hint: Be careful of rings and other finger adornments scratching the stargazer.
2. Gently push the window fully open, hold in place, and twist the knobs on both struts clockwise to lock into place.
   1. Note: Currently, the window can either be fully open, half-open, or closed, the struts were not designed to have the stargazer just cracked open.
3. To close the window, hold it open while you twist the strut knobs counterclockwise to loosen
4. Gently lower the window
5. Push the red button down and twist back the handles 90 degrees so the handles are parallel to the window frame.
   1. Make sure the tabs on the handles slide between the two channels to ensure a secure lock.
   2. Twist the handles until the red button pops back up and clicks.

The stargazer comes standard with a bug screen and blackout window cover. The bug screen attaches magnetically to the powder coated steel ring surrounding the window. The blackout cover then attaches to the magnets in the bug screen. The window cover can be used in multiple ways and can be used with the window open or closed:

• Fully covering the stargazer
• Covering either the top or bottom half only of the window
• Covering either the driver side or passenger side of the window
• Not covering the window at all

NOTE: The blackout cover will not attach to the stargazer window without the bug screen attached first. You can enjoy the bug screen without the cover, but you cannot enjoy the cover without the bug screen.

NOTE: During storage, the stargazer blackout window cover needs to be detached from the window to prevent heat buildup which can warp the window. During normal usage, or when you are camping during high UV exposure, the stargazer must be vented if the blackout covers are installed to prevent heat build up between the cover and the window. The Escapod warranty does NOT cover warped stargazer windows due to heat build up.

The doors are custom molded fiberglass attached with friction hinges. This means that the doors will not close and open by themselves, but they will remain open in the last position left.

• The window is ¼” thick single pane tinted glass.
• The door handles are industry standard RV door handles that have dual locking methods:

1. A dead bolt - lockable from the inside or outside
2. Handle lock only - lockable from the outside only (you can lock the handle, but the inside handle acts as if it wasn’t locked)

• To open the doors, simply lift up on the handle either on the inside or outside
• Both handles are keyed the same and the key code can be found on a sticker on the inside handle as well as on the key under the purple key top. The key code is G###

Locking/Unlocking

• Locking the deadbolt
  • From the inside: turn the red lever clockwise until you hear a feel a small click
  • From the outside: Insert the key on the keyhole not on the movable handle and twist counterclockwise 90 degrees until you feel and hear a click. Turn the key back clockwise 90 degrees to remove the key
• Unlocking the deadbolt
  • From the inside: turn the red lever counterclockwise until you hear a feel a small click
  • From the outside: Insert the key on the keyhole not on the movable handle and twist clockwise 90 degrees until you feel and hear a click. Turn the key back counterclockwise 90 degrees to remove the key or pull the key straight out
• Locking the handle only
  • Insert the key into the keyhole on the liftable handle. The key should be perpendicular to the ground.
  • Turn 90 degrees clockwise
  • Remove key at the 90 degrees (parallel to the ground)
• Unlocking the handle only
  • Insert the key flat into the keyhole on the liftable handle (parallel to the ground)
  • Turn the key 90 degrees counterclockwise
  • Remove key at the 90 degrees (perpendicular to the ground)

Door Bug Screens (Optional)

As an optional accessory to your TOPO2, we offer no-see-um bug screens that attach to the frame of your door. It is of the same material as the stargazer bug screens. These screens have a magnetic opening that allows you to enter and exit the cabin without letting in flying pests. They also roll up for storage if you don’t want to fully remove them.

Adjusting the bug screens:

The screens are attached using a common hook and loop fastener (aka Velcro), with the hook (scratchy) side being stitched into the screen side and the loop (soft) side being attached to the door frame. This means the screens are not permanently attached and, therefore, you may need to adjust the positioning from time to time. To adjust the positioning, carefully pull the screen away from the frame, being careful not to pull up the adhered loop side, and reposition as needed to ensure desired alignment of the magnets on the door opening. Once in the desired position, gently push on the edges to ensure secure attachment.

Door Window Covers (Optional)

As an optional accessory to your TOPO2 we offer a set of matching door window blackout covers. These are of the same material and quality as the stargazer cover and provide a uniform look internally. These covers attach directly to the doors via magnets positioned inside the doors and can easily be pulled on and off.

Cleaning and Maintenance

• HDPE - The HDPE can be cleaned with water and mild dish soap then wiped off using a soft cloth. If you need something more, we use Simple Green as an environmentally friendly alternative. Magic erasers can also be used for stubborn marks.
• Birch Wood - To maintain the finish on the wood, it is best to limit the amount of time it is exposed directly to water. If water sits too long on the wood, it can erode the finish. If it gets wet, wipe it up quickly. We recommend using Murphy’s Oil Soap with a microfiber towel for regular conditioning and cleaning of all wood surfaces.
• Honeycomb - The honeycomb can be cleaned with mild soap and water or a mild detergent and a soft cloth.
• Floor Carpet - The floor carpet is durable, mildew resistant outdoor rated carpet. If it gets wet, remove the mattress to let it air and dry out. It can be spot cleaned with a mild detergent and water as well as vacuumed with a standard hand vacuum for larger debris.
• Headliner - Spot clean using a mild fabric or upholstery cleaner and warm water. Be careful not to oversaturate. Do not run the stain as that has the potential to tear the fibers. Dry thoroughly.
• Mattress - The cotton-poly cover is removable and machine washable. Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, and hang dry. The foam mattress can be gently spot cleaned being careful not to saturate the foam with water. Allow to thoroughly air dry if it does get wet.
• Stargazer/Windows - The stargazer and door windows can be cleaned with any glass cleaner and a lint free or microfiber cloth.
• Soft Goods (Door Screens and Window Covers) - Spot clean with a mild detergent and water. While we do use UV resistant fabric, these may be susceptible to fading due to extended UV exposure over time. This is normal and the discoloration does not affect the integrity of the materials or intended use.

The galley or kitchen/cooking area is located beneath the back hatch. It is external facing and open to the elements with the exception of the overhanging open hatch. It is composed ofHDPE cabinetry, stainless steel countertop and sink and lined with exterior rated mildew resistant carpet. It is also the access point for your utility systems located in the utility closet. See each individual utility section for further information on accessing specific components.

To access the galley, lift up on the black handle in the bottom center of the hatch at the back of the trailer. The hatch is on gas struts and will slowly lift itself. Use the installed hand pull to slowly raise the hatch to full height and use it to pull down to close and latch the hatch. Be sure to push in the corners of the hatch to ensure they latch correctly and securely. Installed in the ceiling of the hatch is a dual color LED light strip. The light switch is located on the passenger side of the galley and is a three -position switch - Clicked up = White Light, Centered = Off, Clicked down = Red light.

Once you open the hatch, you will see the galley cabinet face in front of you. Key points of interest going from driver to passenger (left to right as you are looking at the galley):

• Shower faucet handle and shower head plug in (1)
• Cutting board with knife board behind and access to the Truma unit (2)
• Table covering the storage cabinets (3)
• Hatch light and water pump toggle switch (4)

The storage cabinets are located at arm level behind the collapsible table. To remove the table and access the cabinets:

1. While using one hand to keep the table in place, twist the two silver latches at the top of the table 90 degrees in either direction to release the table
2. Firmly grasp the open handles on the table
3. Tilt the table toward you and pull up to unseat the pins from the saddles attached to the countertop.
   1. The saddles are very snug around the pins when your trailer is new. Don’t be afraid to pull up hard. As you remove and replace your table through normal wear, the saddles will loosen.
   2. You can either set up the table on the integrated fender attachments or leave it collapsed and set aside. See “Table” for set up and fender install instructions.

The center cabinets are designed to be modular in nature and adjustable to individual preferences. The height of each shelf is fixed but the width of the cubbies are adjustable for the top and middle shelves. To adjust the width of the shelf cubbies:

• Top shelf: pull up on the center divider to make one cubby as opposed to two
• Middle shelf: Slide the dividers straight out and move to desired location then re-slide in

The cubbies to the left and right of the modular cabinets are fixed in height and width.

• The top cubby on the fixed-size cubbies on the driver side will contain a 3-prong outlet for 110 power.
  • This is not a GFCI outlet, however, it is surge protected by the GFCI outlet located inside the cabin. See “Cabin” section for more details.

The table acts as the door to the cabinets. Therefore, when the table is set up, everything in the cabinet is open and accessible. To shut up the cabinets, you will need to replace the table.

• To replace the table when it’s in the collapsed position: grip the handles and place the pins at the bottom securely in the saddles, angle inward flush with the cabinet face, and re-pivot the latches down to hold it in place. Make sure to secure the table leg with the plastic thumb nut prior to closing the hatch.
• See the “Table” section for instructions on how to set up the table for use.

The utility closet is accessed behind the modular cabinet shelves. All the shelves must be removed and the back panel removed in order to access your utility closet. See each specific utility section description for more information.

We have found two primary ways to remove the table from the cabinet face and get it set up. If you find a different way that is still secure and works for you, by all means, go for it.

Set-up Option 1

To set up the table and insert it into the fender mounts by extending the leg first:

1. Unscrew the plastic thumb nut securing the extendable table leg to the table. Place the nut back on the bolt or place it in a safe place after you swing out the extendable leg.
2. Hinge down the center support and insert the leg over the tab and use the provided black carabiner to lock the two table legs in place.
3. Extend the table leg to desired height by loosening the bolts securing the slides then retightening.
4. Flip up the pivot latches above the table
5. Firmly grasp both handles on the table and pull up to release the table from the saddles on the counter.
   1. The first few times you remove the table, it will be sticky/tight to pull out.
6. Take the table and, holding it at a 45 degree angle above the fender, insert the black powder coated tabs into the cutouts in the fender.
7. As you pivot the table down, make sure the tabs sit down in the cutouts so the table does not pull out from the fender.
8. To put the table away, reverse the above instructions.

Set-up Option 2

To set up the table and insert it into the fender mounts by removing the table first:

1. Flip up the pivot latches above the table
2. Firmly grasp both handles on the table and pull up to release the table from the saddles on the counter.
   1. The first few times you remove the table, it will be sticky/tight to pull out.
3. Gently place the table face down on the countertop. The leg assembly should be facing up.
4. Unscrew the plastic thumb nut securing the extendable table leg to the table. Place the nut back on the bolt or place it in a safe place after you swing up the extendable leg.
5. Hinge up the center support and insert the leg over the tab and use the provided black carabiner to lock the two table legs in place.
6. Extend the table leg to desired height by loosening the bolts securing the slides then retightening.
7. Take the table off the counter and, holding it at a 45 degree angle above the fender, insert the black powder coated tabs into the cutouts in the fender.
8. As you pivot the table down, make sure the tabs sit down in the cutouts so the table does not pull out from the fender.
9. To put the table away, reverse the above instructions.

On the driver side of the galley cabinet faces is the cutting board and integrated knife board. The Truma furnace and water heating unit is located behind the knife board. The cutting board is attached magnetically to the knife board.

• To remove: insert two fingers in each side cut out and pull to remove
• To replace: align the bottom first then gently push together. You will feel the magnets engage.

Behind the cutting board is an integrated knife board. The TOPO2 comes standard with a GSI Santoku knife set. The knives are attached magnetically.

• To remove knives: grasp the knife handle with your index finger and thumb and pull out.
• To replace knives: place the knife in the desired cut out. You will feel the magnets engage
• NOTE: The knife cut outs were designed for the slim profile of the GSI knives. If you wish to replace these knives with different ones, pay close attention to how far the knife handle protrudes out. If it protrudes too far, the cutting board will not sit flush or re-magnetize properly.

Behind the knife board is the Truma furnace/water heating unit. See the “Cabin Heating” and “Plumbing/Water System” sections for further details on the functionality and use of the Truma.

• To remove the knife board: with both hands, push in the knife board and allow it to be able to slide up; angle the board toward the cabin so the bottom comes out first then you can angle out the rest of the board.
• To replace the knife board: angle the board between the two side tabs and insert it up enough to allow the bottom to get over the bottom tabs. Allow the board to sit along the bottom tray.
• NOTE: There is a lot of stuff in this small space and removing/replacing the knife board can be tricky. It will take some practice to operate smoothly.

Located next to the cutting board is the hook up and handle for the shower. See the “Plumbing/Water System” section for more details.

The countertop is laser cut and bent stainless steel for ultimate durability. It is complemented by a stainless steel sink and faucet. The sink basin measures 13” x 11.75” x 6” and can be filled by a fixed, stainless steel, single knob faucet. The faucet extends 7” over the sink basin. The sink has a single drain hole. For more information on the draining of the sink and gray water, see the “Plumbing/Water System” section.

The countertop is installed over a drawer structure composed of HDPE. This means that it has the potential to warp, melt, or become damaged if it comes into contact with hot cookware. Hot cookware should not be set on the countertop or against any HDPE surface without a trivet. Galley material may be damaged by hot cookware even with use of a trivet, so we recommend keeping hot cookware on the stove until fully cooled.

Beneath the sink are three drawers.

• Top Drawer - The top drawer is a pivoting, soft touch close, tray drawer. This drawer comes complete with a 6-piece plastic spice container and a divider to create two compartments. The intended use of this drawer is to hold cooking spices as well as cleaning sponges
• Middle Drawer - The middle drawer houses your 2-burner Eno propane stove on heavy duty drawer slides. For more information on the use and features of the stove, see the “Cooking/Propane” section. This drawer is installed on heavy duty locking slides, and is not intended to be removed.
• Bottom Drawer - The bottom drawer is part of the same assembly as the stove, so when you pull out the stove, you pull out the utensil drawer from the galley structure as well. The utensil drawer then extends out farther to access the contents. The latch is a simple lift to pull - pull up on the black tab and pull the drawer out. You are able to pull out the utensil drawer without pulling out the stove.

CAUTION: Be sure to thoroughly lock out your drawer slides on the stove prior to cooking or lighting the stove. Open flame can cause severe body and trailer damage if the drawer is left fully or partially closed while lit.

Removing/Replacing the Utensil Drawer

The utensil drawer is able to be removed by fully extending the drawer then either raising or lowering the black tabs on each side of the drawer side slides. The passenger side tab pushes down, the driver side tab pushes up. While holding the tabs in their moved position, you can then pull the drawer straight out. To replace the removed drawer, align the utensil drawer slides with the slides and gently push in the drawer. The slides will want to push in and away from you while you are reinserting the drawer. That is okay, as the two sides will lock into place once fully inserted and closed.

To the right of the drawers, the TOPO2 provides space for either a Yeti Tundra 75 (comes stock) or you can upgrade to the ARB 63 Classic Fridge/Freezer. Regardless of which unit you have, it is stored on a tray with heavy duty locking drawer slides.

• To open the slides: Push down on the two yellow tabs and pull out until the slides are
• fully extended and you hear small clicks as they lock. These slides are designed to support 500 lbs. of weight.
• To close the slides: Push the yellow tabs on each slide down to release the locks and push in until you hear and feel a click.

CAUTION: Do not use the cooler tray for any purpose other than holding your food preservation container. It is not designed to be used as a seat or step platform.

The food compartment also contains a 12V plug where you will plug in a fridge/freezer if selected. If you choose to upgrade to a fridge/freezer aftermarket, don’t worry, the 12V plug for compatibility comes standard. NOTE: The food compartment was designed around the dimensions of the ARB 63qt and Yeti 75. If you get a fridge/freezer aftermarket the largest unit you can get that will fit is the ARB 63 Qt. Other fridge/freezers with a similar capacity will not fit.

CAUTION: Be sure to fully lock out the drawer slides when accessing the contents of your cooler or fridge/freezer to prevent the lid from accidentally closing and smushing fingers. Trust us; we’ve done it.

Yeti Tundra 75

The Yeti Tundra 75 comes stock with the TOPO2. It is a bear proof cooler that has up to 3 inches of insulation, holds up to 131 cans or 78 lbs of ice (if that stuff is the only thing in your cooler), and comes with one dry goods basket. Check out the Tundra FAQ page for more specific information as well as tips and tricks to maximize your enjoyment of the Yeti. Empty weight is approximately 36 lbs.

NOTE: The Yeti comes stock with the TOPO2 and can be directly replaced with the ARB with a material cost refund. If you wish to keep both the Yeti and ARB, one of these items needs to be stored in your tow vehicle as the tongue box does not have the capacity to accommodate additional food storage.

As an optional upgrade, you can select the ARB Classic Series II 63QT Portable Fridge/Freezer. The ARB plugs into a 12 volt outlet installed in every trailer and is secured to the tray with straps. The ARB includes an advanced electronic control system with a dimmable backlit touchpad for easy nighttime operation, as well as a 12V power input readout for simple voltage monitoring on the display. There is also a reversible basket with a divider to help keep food and drinks stored neat and tidy, while a convenient drain plug allows for simple cleaning. Empty weight is approximately 54 lbs.

ARB Quick Start

1. Make sure the 12V cord is securely inserted into the ARB and the 12V plug along the back compartment wall and the main battery switch is turned to “On/Green” in the cabin.
2. Press and hold the circle power button until the control panel illuminates and the green light turns on.
   1. The temperature setting will be the number displayed on the screen.
3. To change settings, press the diamond button to toggle through different settings and the up down buttons to navigate within each setting.
4. The green light will change to orange when the unit has reached the selected temperature
5. To turn off - press and hold the power button

Please refer to the ARB FridgeFreezer component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here.

Cleaning and Maintenance

• HDPE - The HDPE can be cleaned with water and mild dish soap then wiped off using a soft cloth. If you need something more, we use Simple Green as an environmentally friendly alternative. Magic erasers also work for stubborn marks.
• Floor Carpet - The floor carpet is durable, mildew resistant outdoor rated carpet. If it gets wet, absorb excess water with a towel and allow it to thoroughly air dry. It can be spot cleaned with a mild detergent and water as well as vacuumed with a standard hand vacuum for larger debris.
• Stainless Steel - The stainless steel countertop and sink can be wiped down with soap and water. To get a like new shine, you can use a stainless steel cleaner and polish with a soft, lint free cloth. Be careful with anything abrasive as that can leave scratch marks.
• Heavy Duty Drawer Slides - With extended use, you may find your drawer slides do not slide as smoothly as when you picked it up. We recommend using a dry lube to help clean and lubricate without attracting additional dust and dirt.
• Spice Bottles - The 6-piece spice container kit is hand wash only

1. Confirm that the trailer battery is on and charged
   1. Make sure the battery switch (located in the same compartment as the Truma control panel) is pointing to green
2. Push the “Fan On” button once
   1. The same on button adjusts the fan speed - there are four unique speeds
3. To turn off, push the “Fan Off” button once
4. To open the lid, pull the black knob straight down then turn either counterclockwise to open or clockwise to turn, then push the knob straight back up to lock into place.

NOTE: Ventilation while sleeping is strongly recommended to prevent excess condensation build up and ensure fresh air flow. This can be achieved by opening the stargazer, cracking open the fan lid and running the fan on low, or setting the A/C unit with the remote to manual mode and configuring it to a higher temp (so the compressor won’t kick on) and desired fan speed.

The Maxxfan is a manually operated four-speed exhaust fan with a 14” x 14” footprint. It is able to be run with the lid open or closed.

Fan Quick Start

1. Confirm that the trailer battery is on and charged
   1. Make sure the battery switch (located in the same compartment as the Truma control panel) is pointing to green
2. Push the “Fan On” button once
   1. The same on button adjusts the fan speed - there are four unique speeds
3. To turn off, push the “Fan Off” button once
4. To open the lid, pull the black knob straight down then turn either counterclockwise to open or clockwise to turn, then push the knob straight back up to lock into place.

General Information

• Regularly clean the screen with a damp cloth to prevent dirt build up and improve air quality. If you want to fully remove the screen for a deeper clean, twist the four hooks out of the way to allow the screen to come free.

Please refer to the Maxxfan component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here.

The Dometic RTX 1000 Coolair Air Conditioner (referred to as the A/C unit in this manual) is the optional upgrade for a cooling/ventilation system. We do not perform any additional programming outside the factory settings, so it is important for you to adjust the temperature settings and fan speeds depending on your individual preferences.

A/C Quick Start

1. Confirm that the trailer battery is on and charged
   1. Make sure the battery switch (located in the same compartment as the Truma control panel) is pointing to green
   2. There will be a small blue light illuminated if there is power getting to the unit.
2. Push the power button on the control panel in the cabin. The unit will automatically turn on for 62 degrees.
   1. The default setting to adjust upon turning on is the temperature. Push the up/down buttons on the control panel to adjust the temperature.
3. Push the menu button to toggle between menu options and use the up/down arrows to move within each option.
4. To turn off, simply hit the power button again and the LCD screen will clear
   1. It may take up to a minute for the unit to power down and stop blowing cool air into the trailer.

General Information

• The use of the A/C unit requires the installation of the 200 Amp hour battery configuration for proper operation.
  • If you do not have at least a 200 Amp-hour battery configuration, an external generator may be required for proper operation
• The exterior A/C unit requires at least 3.8” of clearance on all sides. Therefore if you wish to install a rooftop tent or basket aftermarket, you will need to install riser brackets. See the “Body - Roof Rack System'' section for more information.

Please refer to the Dometic RTX 1000 Coolair Air Conditioner component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here.

The fan won't turn on

• No power to the trailer > Make sure your batteries are charged and the master battery switch is turned to “On/Green.”
• Blown fuse > Check the fuse block for the fan fuse and replace if blown or broken.
• Circuit board damaged > If there is power to the trailer, the fan was working and now does not there could be a problem with the circuit board. Refer to the parts list in the appendix for the correct replacement part.

A/C won’t turn on

• No power to the trailer > Make sure your batteries are charged and the master battery switch is turned to “On/Green.”

• Extremely quiet and efficient
• Able to be used as a forced air heater without a full water tank
• Digital control panel for the heat and fan levels
• The fan can run on a vent setting to keep air circulating without heat

The TOPO2 comes standard with a Truma Combi Eco dual purpose gas furnace with supplementary indirect water heating. This section will discuss the air heating features of the unit. For water heating information, refer to the “Plumbing/Water System” section.

Please refer to the Truma Combi component user manual as well as the Truma CP plus operating instructions for detailed information about the features and functionality of the unit. Truma Operating Instructions and Troubleshooting

Benefits of the Truma Combi

• Extremely quiet and efficient
• Able to be used as a forced air heater without a full water tank
• Digital control panel for the heat and fan levels
• The fan can run on a vent setting to keep air circulating without heat

Quick Access to the Truma

The Truma is located in the utility closet - essentially the space between the cabin and the galley. To access the utility closet:

1. Open the hatch to the galley
2. Remove the cutting board on the driver side of the galley cabinets
3. Push in the top of the knife board located behind the cutting board so you an angle it out for removal
   1. For more detailed information about the pieces of the galley and accessing the Truma compartment, refer to the “Galley” section.

Truma Quick Start

The Truma uses a small cabin sensor to establish the ambient temperature. That sensor is the small black dome at the upper driver side corner of the SiMarine systems monitor in the cabin. Make sure that sensor is not covered or obstructed.

1. Make sure the switch for the gas on the Truma is toggled to “On”
   1. The switch is located on the top of the unit and should only be turned off if the unit is being professionally serviced.
2. Confirm the propane is open and full enough to provide a steady stream of fuel
   1. The propane tank is located inside the tongue box
3. Confirm that the trailer battery is on and charged
   1. Make sure the battery switch, located in the same compartment as the Truma control panel in the cabin, is pointing to green
4. From the cabin control panel, push the center button to set your temperature, heating mode, and fan level.
   1. Temperature is found on the camper icon
   2. Heating mode is the thermometer icon
   3. Fan mode is the fan icon
5. You should start to feel air flowing out of the vents almost immediately, but it can take up to five (5) additional minutes before hot air is felt.
   1. The Truma will shut off automatically when the desired heat is reached according to its sensor.

Internal Vents

There are four (4) vents which allow hot air to flow into the cabin, two (2) on each side of the trailer.

• The first position is along the ceiling aiming toward the stargazer. This vent is adjustable/closable due to a turnable panel in the vent.

CAUTION: Hot air can cause burns. Please use caution when adjusting the vent openings while hot air is flowing out.

• The second position is between the door and the cabin cabinet structure, referred to as the coat closet/mudroom. This has vents that allow air to flow down into the shoe cubby as well as straight out across the door opening. These vents are not adjustable/closable.
• Make sure these vents are not obstructed to ensure proper airflow to the cabin
• There are also hot air vents that are directed toward the utility systems within the utility closet, accessible behind the cabinets in the galley. This is to help keep the ambient temperature around the lithium batteries above 32 degrees to ensure their ability to charge.

External Vent

On the driver side of the trailer, about halfway up the trailer, is the Truma Wall Cowl which passes through the body. This cowl is the intake and exhaust vent for the Truma unit and maintains proper ventilation for propane consumption within the Truma compartment. You may see water dripping from this vent onto the fender. That is condensation and perfectly normal.

CAUTION: Do not block the external Truma vent as that draws in air for combustion and emits exhaust.

Truma Won't turn on

• No Power to the trailer > Make sure your batteries are charged and the master battery switch is turned to “On/Green.”
• Blown fuse > Check the fuse block for the Truma fuse and replace if blown or broken. The Truma unit itself also has a fuse under the electrical cover.
• No propane > Make sure the propane is open and flowing to the unit

Truma is running but hot air is not being felt

• Vents are closed > Make sure all the vents are open

Truma is not shutting off when temperature is reach

• Discrepancy between SiMarine and Truma sensors > If the SiMarine is reading one temperature setting and the Truma is reading another, the Truma will shut off when the Truma sensor hits the programmed temperature. These two systems are independent and may have different readings, especially if the trailer is in very cold temperatures. You can set the desired Truma temperature to be lower so it won’t run as much.

Error codes

• Depends > Check the Truma owners manual for the list of error codes. In many cases, as long as the propane is flowing with good pressure and there is power to the unit, you can clear the error code by resetting the control panel. Navigate to the wrench icon, then scroll where it says reset and hit the center button to confirm the action.
• For more troubleshooting information on Truma go to https://truma.net/support-and-resources/manuals > Troubleshooting Truma Combi eco / comfort / eco plus / comfort plus

Because our water system is fully enclosed within the trailer, there is no need to formally winterize your TOPO2 provided the temperature within the TOPO2 remains above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. However, if that condition cannot be met, you will want to winterize your trailer. To winterize your TOPO2:

1. Make sure your trailer is on level ground
2. Pull out the stove drawer until fully extended
3. Pull out the utensil drawer until fully extended
   1. It helps to remove the utensil drawer to give you more room to access the plumbing panel.
   2. To remove the drawer: Push up or down the black tabs on each side of the drawer
      1. Passenger side pushes down
      2. Driver side pulls up
   3. With tabs moved, pull the drawer out of the slides
   4. Set the removed drawer aside
4. Turn the water pump on
5. Crawl under the extended drawers where you can reach back and access the plumbing panel
6. Using either your hand (if you have long arms) or a pair of pliers, turn the two valves with white handles 90 degrees so they are in line with the pipes.
7. Near the floor there is a yellow tab, which you will flip in the upward position
   1. This allows the water to drain from the water tank.
   2. Note: the draining water will come straight out the bottom of the trailer. Be aware of where your legs are under the trailer or the grade of the surface you are on. Speaking from experience, you may get wet if you are not careful.
8. Run the water pump until it starts to sputter
9. Turn off the water pump
10. Raise the driver side of the trailer 3”-6” off the ground
    1. You can do this with ramps, rocks, 2x4s, floor jacks, etc.
    2. If you use a floor jack, you want to place it under the driver-side trailing arm.
11. Once it is jacked up and level front to back, turn the water pump back on.
12. Run the pump until it is dry or there is minimal to no sputter.
13. Turn the water pump back off.

The above winterizing process will winterize your Truma unit as well and does not require RV antifreeze.

Check out our video on winterizing your TOPO2.

The TOPO2 comes standard with a Truma Combi Eco dual purpose gas furnace with supplementary indirect water heating. This section will discuss the water heating features of the unit. For air heating information, refer to the “Cabin Heating” section.

Please refer to the Truma Combi component user manual for detailed information about the features and functionality of the unit. Truma Operating Instructions and Troubleshooting

How the Water Heater Works

The Truma water heater works by holding hot water in the Truma water container. The water container holds approximately 2.6 gallons (10L). Temperature is set via the Truma control panel to either eco, hot or boost mode then mixing in cold water from the standard water tank at the water release points (shower or sink faucet). Be sure to test the water temperature before using it to ensure it is not too hot. It can take up to 23 minutes for the water container to heat from 59 deg F to 140 deg F if in Hot Water Boost Mode. Hand feel water for your desired temperature by adjusting the mixers either at the sink or shower connection.

CAUTION: Hot water can cause burns. Use caution when handling hot water.

Quick Access to the Truma

The Truma is located in the utility closet - essentially the space between the cabin and the galley. To access the utility closet:

1. Open the hatch to the galley
2. Remove the cutting board on the driver side of the galley cabinets
3. Push in the knife board behind the cutting board so you an angle it out for removal
   1. For more detailed information about the pieces of the galley and accessing the Truma compartment, refer to the “Galley” section.

Water Heater Quick Start

This quick start is to initially fill the Truma water compartment.

1. Make sure the switch for the gas on the Truma is toggled to “On”
   1. The switch is located on the top of the unit (should always be “On”)
2. Confirm the propane is open and full enough to provide a steady stream of fuel
   1. The propane tank is located inside the tongue box
3. Confirm that the trailer battery is on and charged
   1. Make sure the battery switch located in the same compartment as the Truma control panel in the cabin is pointing to green
4. Make sure the trailer water tank has enough water to fill the Truma compartment
   1. The Truma water container holds 10L (approximately 2.6 gallons) of water
5. Set the water heating temperature via the Truma control panel
   1. Located in the passenger side small cabinet
   2. Water Heat Settings: Eco, Hot, Boost
      1. Eco sets the water temperature to 104 degrees F; Hot sets the water temperature to 140 degrees F; Boost sets the water temperature to 144 degrees F.
      2. The water will heat up as the furnace temperature heats with the exception of in “Boost” mode. The furnace fan will not work while the water heater is in boost mode as all energy is going toward heating the water.
      3. In “Boost” mode, it can take up to 23 minutes to completely heat one full compartment of water.
6. To fill the water container
   1. Close the pressure release/drain valve on the Truma
      1. Should be closed unless you drained the water system recently
   2. Make sure all plumbing valves are open
      1. Should be open unless you drained the water system recently
   3. Turn on the water pump
   4. Turn the sink faucet to HOT only
   5. If the Truma is empty at the start of the process nothing will come out of the faucet. The faucet will transition to sputtering less and less frequently as you keep it open. Once there is a steady or mostly steady flow coming out of the faucet (while only on HOT), turn the faucet off. The Truma is now full.
      1. The water will be cold/temperature of the primary water tank during this process.
   6. Once the Truma is full, turn off the faucet and let the Truma heat the water.
      1. Remember - if it is set to “Boost” it will heat the water the fastest but it can still take up to 23 minutes to fully heat.
   7. After 20 minutes, turn on the faucet while it is turned to hot to carefully test the temperature of the water.

The TOPO2 comes standard with a 21-gallon freshwater tank. The tank is installed internally to prevent from freezing and enhances the ability for complete all season camping. It is equipped with an internal water bobber which feeds the data on the SiMarine systems controller to provide water level tracking.

Helpful Hint: We do not recommend storing water in either the Truma or water tank when the trailer is not in use. Drain both after every trip. Be sure to let any hot water cool before draining as hot water kills grass and vegetation.

Helpful Hint: One gallon of water weighs 8.34 lbs, so a full water tank and Truma compartment will add about 190 lbs to your trailer. If weight is a concern when you are towing, we recommend filling your tank at the last opportunity to do so.

Accessing the Tank

1. Make sure the battery disconnect switch in the cabin has been turned to “Red/Off”
2. Pull out the food storage drawer containing either the ARB or the Yeti
3. Remove the ARB or Yeti and set aside
4. Remove all screws/fasteners on the back honeycomb panel - fasteners are located along the top of the panel (underside of the countertop) and in the bottom passenger side corner of the panel
   1. You will use a T15 bit or a #3 Phillips screwdriver to remove all fasteners.
5. Tilt the panel down
   1. Carefully pull out the spade connectors on the back of the 12V plug which is located on the passenger side of the panel.
6. Once the panel is fully independent, remove the panel and set aside

Filling the Tank

On the passenger side of the trailer there is a chrome inlet labeled “Water.” This is your water inlet access point. To fill the water tank:

1. Lift the tab on the water inlet valve to unscrew the cover
   1. This cover is connected with a bead chain to prevent loss. Be careful not to drop the cap against the trailer as it could swing down and damage the paint.
2. Use a BPA-free water hose attached to a pressurized source or funnel with buckets
   1. You DO NOT need pressurized water to fill the tank, although it will make the process easier since you won’t be lifting buckets. It is also useful to note there is a maximum fill rate of the tank. This means using a higher pressure hose will not fill the tank faster. The key to efficient water tank filling is a steady flow.
3. Continue to fill via the inlet until the tank is full. You can tell when it is full by:
   1. The SiMarine indicating the water tank capacity is 100%
   2. The tank starts to overflow by having water flow out of the passenger side, side hitch receiver tube
4. Once the tank is full, replace the inlet cover by screwing in until hand tight.

Monitoring Levels

The water level is one of the systems monitored by the SiMarine systems monitor which control panel is located within the cabin. Initial programming is done at Escapod, but sometimes you need to reset configurations. See the “SiMarine Systems Monitor” section for additional information about the factory configuration.

Please refer to the SiMarine component manual for additional programming information not listed here.

Water Consumption

While 21-gallons seems like a lot of water, if consumption is not watched, it can be used up really fast. When asked, How long will my water last? the answer will always be, How much of it do you use and how fast? If you are going off grid for an extended period of time, we recommend bringing additional water with Jerry cans and/or a way to filter water from natural sources.

The TOPO2 comes equipped with a 12V water pump which is set to 45 PSI and can fill at a rate of 3 gallons/minute. The switch to turn on the pump is located on the passenger side of the galley face. It is a round rocker switch labeled “WTR” under the galley light switch.

Accessing the Pump

The water pump is located behind the drawers, under the sink. To access the water pump:

1. Pull out the stove drawer until fully extended
2. Pull out the utensil drawer until fully extended
3. Crawl under the extended drawers where you can reach back and access the water pump.
4. If you need to actually perform work on the pump you may need to disconnect the propane from the stove and remove the stove or drawer. Please contact Service and Warranty ([email protected]) if this is the case.

The panel where the pump is installed also contains plumbing shut off valves. You would need to access these valves:

• If you are winterizing (See “Plumbing/Water System - Winterizing” for more details.)
• If you are performing maintenance on the plumbing system and want to isolate an area

Please refer to the Seaflo water pump component manual or Flojet water pump component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here.

The shower faucet and connection are located on the driver side of the galley face. The shower head is a separate component that can be stored in your galley cabinets.

Shower Mixer

The mixer is the adjustable knob above the quick-connect. Hot water is the knob pointing to the driver side, cold water is the knob pointing to the passenger side. The mixer can only swivel approximately 45 degrees off of center. To start the flow of water, pull the knob straight out so it pivots up.

Shower Head Quick Connect and Storage

Plugging In: To use the shower, put the male end of the quick connect into the female end installed in the galley face. You will hear a click when it locks into place

Unplugging: Push down on the dark gray button on the female side of the connection to allow the shower head and hose to pull straight out.

Storage: When in use, the shower head will sit in a holder. The shower head comes with a magnetic holder that attaches to the outside of your trailer. The magnets are on the driver side of the trailer, approximately in line with the top of the hatch cut out, and 6” from the top of the trailer. The holder should be positioned with the flat section pointed up. See photos below for a side and front view of the magnetic mount with the shower head.

Reminders

• Remember to remove the shower head holder from the outside of the trailer prior to moving. You can store this with the shower head or you can attach it to the magnets on the cutting board.
  • The cutting board magnets are very strong and can be pulled out by the shower holder if you pull the shower holder straight off. If that happens, keep the magnet attached to the shower holder and reinsert it into the hole then slide the holder along the cutting board to separate them.
• Disconnect the shower hose from the quick connection prior to shutting the hatch to prevent hose or gasket damage.
• Be sure to drain all the water out of the shower head prior to storage. To drain the water from the shower head:

1. Disconnect the shower head from the trailer
2. Unscrew the bottom male quick connect and remove it from the end of the hose
3. Allow all the water to drain before reinserting and screwing in the quick connect.

Sink and Faucet

The sink holds approximately 3.5 gallons of water and is filled by the stainless steel faucet. The faucet does move so you can pivot it out of the way for larger dishes.

• To turn on the faucet: pull up on the handle
• To turn off the faucet: push down on the handle
• To access hot water: twist the handle toward the hatch (if you are standing at the sink, toward you)
• To access cold water: twist the handle toward the cabin (if you are standing at the sink, away from you)

The sink comes with a drain plug attached to a chain that is not attached to the sink or surrounding area.

Gray Water

Gray water is the term used to describe household waste water created from laundry water, shower water, dish/drain water, sink basin water, etc. It is generally not toxic and contains few pathogens and can be reused for irrigation and other non-potable (non-drinking) purposes. With regards to your TOPO2, gray water comes from your sink drain. The TOPO2 does NOT have an integrated gray water capture system. The sink drains out of the brass bulkhead seen coming out of the body on the driver side. To access the drainage point, unscrew the brass cap and set aside (Remember: righty-tighty, lefty-loosey). Once you release the drain on your sink, the water will flow straight out. When you are done with the drainage point, reattach the cap.

Disposal of Gray Water:

• If you are not collecting your gray water, you can let it absorb directly into the ground behind the driver side tire. This is not the most efficient way and does not follow Leave No Trace (LNT) camping guidelines. We support following LNT as much as possible so not to be that person who messes up a killer camping area.
• If you are collecting your gray water:
  • Strain the water prior to disposal to collect any food particles which can attract wildlife. Put the strained particles in a garbage bag for packing out.
  • Dispose of the water in a dedicated area if you are in a campground which provides gray water disposal areas.
  • After straining, take the water at least 200 feet away from your camp and other water sources then scatter widely if you are not at an area with dedicated disposal areas. If you are scattering your water, make sure the water has cooled to a tepid temperature as hot water can kill vegetation.

Camping Tip: If you want to avoid a muddy spot/puddle behind your driver side tire, it is beneficial to collect your gray water and dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way, especially if there is non-biodegradable soap in it. To collect your gray water, attach a gray water hose (really any short hose with a ¾” female garden hose end) to the trailer drain then have the hose drain into a bucket or Jerry can labeled as gray water. When the can is full, dispose of it properly.

Camping Tip: Capturing your gray water is a great way to track/visually monitor your water consumption for non-drinking purposes.

Camping Tip: To prevent food build up in the drain pipes - scrape all large particles off your dishes prior to washing. This will let you use one sink-full of water for all your dishes.

NOTE: If you are using different Jerry cans for both drinking and gray water, be sure to clearly label each can and only put the described water in each. You don’t want to contaminate your clean drinking water containers by using them for non-drinking purposes.

Because our water system is fully enclosed within the trailer, there is no need to formally winterize your TOPO2 provided the temperature within the TOPO2 remains above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. However, if that condition cannot be met, you will want to winterize your trailer. To winterize your TOPO2:

1. Make sure your trailer is on level ground and tires are chocked
2. If there is a large amount of the water in the system, you will want to drain it out before.
   1. The easiest way to do this to open up the sidewall drain (attach your greywater hose if you want to collect the water and dispose of it away from your trailer)
   2. Turn on the sink
   3. Turn on the pump
   4. Let the water flow until it starts to slow
   5. Turn off the sink
   6. Turn off the water pump.
3. Pull out the stove drawer until fully extended
4. Pull out the utensil drawer until fully extended
   1. It helps to remove the utensil drawer to give you more room to access the plumbing panel.
   2. To remove the drawer: Push up or down the black tabs on each side of the drawer
      1. Passenger side pushes down
      2. Driver side pulls up
   3. With tabs moved, pull the drawer out of the slides
   4. Set the removed drawer aside
5. Crawl under the extended drawers where you can reach back and access the plumbing panel
6. Using either your hand (if you have long arms) or a pair of pliers, turn the two valves with white handles 90 degrees so they are in line (or parallel) with the pipes.
7. Near the floor there is a yellow tab, which you will flip in the downward position
   1. This allows the water to drain from the water tank.
   2. Note: the draining water will come straight out the bottom of the trailer. Be aware of where your legs are under the trailer or the grade of the surface you are on. Speaking from experience, you may get wet if you are not careful.
8. Plug in the shower hose with the shower head open
9. Open the water fill port
10. Turn the shower mixer and sink faucet “On” in the “warm” or neutral position
11. Turn the water pump on
12. Run the water pump until it starts to sputter
13. Turn off the water pump
14. Raise the driver side of the trailer 3”-6” off the ground
    1. You can do this with ramps, rocks, 2x4s, floor jacks, etc.
       1. The easiest is to move the trailer up onto a curb or roll it onto some wood blocks
       2. If you use a floor jack, you want to place it under the driver side trailing arm. See circled area in photo below.
       3. You can also use tall bottle jacks that are placed on any part of the frame. Be sure you have the jack attached to the frame and not a component that is bolted to the frame (for example, the rear hitch or side receiver tubes).
15. Once it is jacked up and level front to back, turn the water pump back on.
16. Run the pump until it is dry or there is minimal to no sputter.
17. Turn the water pump back off
18. Relevel your trailer
19. Turn the shower mixer and sink faucet off
20. Remove and drain the shower hose
    1. Unscrew the male end of the quick connect
    2. Allow all the water to drain out of the hose
    3. Reinsert and tighten the quick connect
21. Close all valves and ports
22. Replace the utensil drawer (if removed)
23. Close the stove drawer and you are done!

The above winterizing process will winterize your Truma unit as well and does not require RV antifreeze.

Check out our video on winterizing your TOPO2.

Having a clean water supply is critical to having a safe and happy camping experience. Make sure you are filling your water tank with clean, drinkable water. If you are not planning to use the water for extended periods of time, be sure to fully drain the system. As a best practice, we recommend not storing any water in your system between trips. We also recommend sanitizing your water system at least twice per year - once at the start of your camping season and once at the end. If you utilize the all weather capabilities of your TOPO2 it is good to sanitize and clean your water system in the spring then in the fall.

Truma Recommendations

Truma recommends decalcifying and cleaning the water container at least twice a year for hygienic reasons. Only use specialized and suitable products. Do not use chlorine-based products. Read and follow the instructions of the decalcifying agent’s manufacturer.

1. For decalcifying the water container, fill the water container with citric acid and let it work for some time.
2. Fill citric acid into the fresh water supply and dilute it with fresh water according to the supplier’s specification.
3. Add more than 7 gallons of water to fill up the water container of the Combi furnace as well as the plumbing pipes.
4. Drain the mixture of citric acid and water from the water container and flush it with fresh water.

Escapod Recommendations

You will clean/sanitize the water system in two stages:

1. Follow the Truma recommendations above for the Truma unit and general water system. Because the TOPO2 water system is integrated with the Truma:
   1. Fill citric acid into the fresh water supply and dilute with fresh water according to supplier’s specifications.
   2. Run the water system
2. Clean the sink drain system
   1. Cap the gray water drain plug from the outside of the trailer
   2. Pour a bleach solution of ¼ teaspoon to 1 gallon of water down the sink drain.
   3. Fill until the water rises to the base of the drain.
   4. Let sit for a minimum of 2 hours and a maximum of overnight.
      1. 2 hours will provide over 99% sanitization, but to achieve 100% the bleach needs to sit for a minimum of 6 hours.
   5. Place a catch container under the drain plug
   6. Remove the drain plug and allow the water to drain into the bucket
      1. You can use your gray water hose to control the flow of the drain water and sanitize the hose in the process.
   7. Rinse the drain with a few gallons of clear water

Plumbing Troubleshooting

The primary troubleshooting with plumbing is leaks or fill processes not followed. Leaks should not be present when coming from the factory. Freezing conditions or extreme driving can jostle the plumbing system resulting in minor leaks. In most cases, this just requires tightening of fittings.

Problems:

Water leaking at the shower mixer

• If the leak is coming from the back, the rear connections are loose > Take a standard adjustable crescent wrench to tighten the back connections.
• If the leak is coming from the front, there is a defect or damage within the mixer itself > Contact [email protected] for a warranty claim.

Water leaking at shower quick connect

• Connection not fully inserted > Pull out the connection, check the opening for obstructions, and firmly reinsert

Water leaking from the faucet above the countertop

• Damage occurred to the faucet internal workings. > If the leak is small, you can always leave it. Or you can contact [email protected] for information about replacing the faucet. Remember damage to internal parts of the faucet due to freezing may not be covered under warranty.

Water drips from under the sink onto the stove

• The clamp attaching the hose to the sink drain has loosened. > Make sure the worm drive connector at the sink drain to the drain pipe is tight. Use a flathead screwdriver to tighten. If this does not stop the leak, contact [email protected].

1. Make sure the propane tank has fuel and is open
2. Using your thumb and index finger, push down the chrome button, exposing the black turn knob of the burner you wish to light
3. While pushing down, turn the knob to the flame icon
4. Hit the center ignite button
5. Once it is ignited, hold the knob down for a few seconds and turn it counterclockwise to keep the flame lit.
6. Adjust the flame strength as desired, counterclockwise turns the flame down, and clockwise turns the flame up.
7. To turn off the flame: twist the knob clockwise past the flame icon to the 12 o’clock position which does not allow propane to flow to the burners.

There are two potential causes and solutions to this issue.

Potential Cause: No propane/propane tank closed

Solution: Make sure the propane tank is open and sufficiently full

Potential Cause: Loss of propane line pressure/air in propane lines

Solution: If you recently replaced your propane tank, you may need to rebuild the pressure in the lines. Move the burner's dials to the open position and leave them open for 1-2 minutes until you can start to smell propane. Be sure to give some time for the purged propane to dissipate. Then re-hit the ignition switch to light. It may take a couple of tries for it to reignite.

Propane gas, also known as LP or liquid petroleum, is a gas which is compressed and stored as a liquid. It is a naturally colorless, and odorless gas - it has odor that smells like rotten eggs applied for detection. It is clean burning and highly flammable - which is why it is the main fuel source for the Truma furnace/hot water heater and the stove. When dealing with propane:

• Keep the tank in a well ventilated area and closed when not in use.
  • The tongue box has vents installed specifically for the propane tank and they must not be blocked. The vents are located on the driver side of the tongue box. See photos below for location of vents from an internal and external perspective.
• Do NOT use open flame when trying to detect a leak - use a water and soap solution to spray on fittings and hoses - bubbles will form at the leaking points.
• Do NOT cross thread or force the regulator fitting into the tank hole. Make sure all connections are secure and threaded properly
  • It is important to check your propane fittings at least once a year as travel vibrations can loosen joints over time.
• Make sure the tank is securely mounted in the tongue box - do not inhibit access to it for emergency shut off needs
• If you are using the stove and the flame goes out without the gas shutting off:
  • turn off the propane at the stove immediately - turn both the burner dials to the 12 o’clock position
  • allow the air above the stove to clear and dissipate the gas
  • once the gas has cleared or dissipated, you can try to reignite the stove
• If you smell gas:
  • Extinguish any open flames, pilot lights and all smoking materials
  • Do not touch electrical switches
  • Shut off the propane supply and the container valve(s) or propane supply connection
  • Leave the area until the odor clears
  • Have the propane system checked and leakage source corrected before using it again.

The fuel system on the TOPO2 is designed for propane only - do not use natural gas in the system.

Your TOPO2 comes equipped with an 11 lb propane tank located in the tongue box. It is attached to a propane regulator which decreases the pressure of the gas coming out of the tank to allow it to be used by your appliances. The propane tank is the main source of fuel for the stove and Truma Combi.

CAUTION: The propane regulator must be installed in the correct position in order for it to function properly. The vent must be pointed down for proper air flow. See correct positioning in the following photo.

To open/close propane tank

1. Turn the top knob clockwise to close and counterclockwise to open - righty-tighty, lefty-loosey - to hand tight only
   1. Be sure to fully open the tank when you are ready to use the propane to ensure enough fuel is able to flow through the system
   2. Be sure to fully close the tank when you are traveling or not using propane driven appliances.

To remove the propane tank for exchange or fill

1. Make sure the tank is securely closed prior to removal. Hand tighten only.
2. Remove the security strap by pushing down on the cam buckle and pulling out to release the strap
3. Twist the black arm knob between the regulator and the tank clockwise to loosen
4. Pull the regulator straight out from the tank fitting
5. Remove the tank from the tongue box.

NOTE: This connection is REVERSE THREADED which is universal for regulator and tank combos.

To reinstall a newly filled propane tank

1. Make sure the tank is securely closed prior to installation
2. Set the propane tank in the tongue box with the open valve pointed toward the tongue
3. Remove any dust caps covering the tank fitting
4. Take the regulator and insert the fitting into the threaded opening fully
5. Twist the black arm knob between the regulator and the tank counterclockwise to tighten
6. Reposition the propane tank in the corner and securely refasten with the cinch strap through the L-track anchors.
7. Test the connections by slowly opening up the valve - if you hear a hissing sound that lasts longer than 2 seconds, close the valve and re-inspect the connection.

NOTE: This connection is REVERSE THREADED which is universal for regulator and tank combos.

Filling the Propane Tank

• Take your tank to an authorized propane fueling facility only.
• Remove the tank from the tongue box prior to filling. It is illegal to have a propane tank filled while inside a vehicle or compartment
• The authorized filling facility will only fill the tank to 80% of its capacity by volume, as gas pressure increases with temperature

Propane Consumption

While there are multiple factors in determining how much propane you will use, by understanding how it is consumed you can estimate how quickly you will use your propane. Each state has different propane tank fill restrictions, but the 11 lb. propane tank that comes with your TOPO2 can hold up to 11 lbs of propane. One pound of propane is approximately 21,500 BTU. One BTU (British Thermal Unit) shows just how much energy it takes to heat one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit.

When figuring out how much propane you are going to use, you want to factor in what actions are going to use the most energy. Heating full containers of water from cold to hot in the Truma will use more energy than just heating small replenishment water amounts which will use more energy than running the Truma for hot air alone. Running both stove burners at the same time will use more energy than using just the larger burner which uses more energy than just the small burner. In general, you will use propane faster in the winter, when it is cold, and slower in the summer, when it is warmer. While our appliances are quite efficient in propane consumption, if you are going off-grid for extended periods of time in cold weather, it may be beneficial to have a spare tank with you. Depending on how often you are out in your TOPO2, plan on filling your tank at least once or twice a year.

Appliance and Approx BTU/hr

Eno Flushline Cooktop > 4200-10800

Truma Combi >7500-14300

The chart above notes the range of BTUs used by the stove and Truma when in constant use for an hour. Remember, you will not have the stove running constantly for an hour or the Truma will not be constantly blowing hot air or heating water for an hour. Normal usage will run these appliances in 15-30 minute increments.

General Propane Tank Safety

• Regularly inspect your propane tank for structural damage, signs of corrosion, and proper functionality of the valves. If the tank leaks or has stripped threads preventing proper opening or closing, dispose of it in a safe manner and replace that tank immediately
• Purge new propane tanks by a qualified technician prior to filling. This allows air, water, or other imperfections that have been trapped in the tank to release
• Always store the propane tank in the upright position
• If you want to bring additional propane on your trip, we recommend purchasing a second 11lb tank exactly like the one that comes with the trailer. The tongue box was designed for this specific size and shape. Remember, any damage due to an improperly installed or different sized aftermarket propane system components (including tank or regulator) may result in a voided warranty.

Mounted in the second drawer in the galley, is a 8000 BTU 2-burner propane stove by ENO. See the “Galley” section for more details about accessing the stove.

CAUTION: Make sure the stove drawer is properly locked in place prior to lighting the stove.

WARNING: The stove is an open-flame propane stove which can cause burns. Use caution when cooking. Do not touch hot pans or the metal grate until they cool.

Lighting the Stove

1. Make sure the propane tank has fuel and is open
2. Using your thumb and index finger, push down the chrome button, exposing the black turn knob of the burner you wish to light
3. While pushing down, turn the knob to the flame icon
4. Hit the center ignite button
5. Once it is ignited, hold the knob down for a few seconds and turn it counterclockwise to keep the flame lit.
6. Adjust the flame strength as desired, counterclockwise turns the flame down, clockwise turns the flame up.
7. To turn off the flame: twist the knob clockwise past the flame icon to the 12 o’clock position which does not allow propane to flow to the burners.

Stove Safety

• Never leave an open flame unattended
• Do not operate the stove with loose clothing or fabric that can easily fall into the flame
• The grates over the burners will get very hot - do not touch if you have been using the stove and make sure the grates are cool prior to shutting the stove drawer.
• Make sure you are using burner appropriate sized pots and pans. Pots and pans should not extend past or over the grates which could cause damage to the surrounding materials.
• Know the specific attributes of your pot and pan choices. For example, stainless steel may discolor with the flames, cast iron is very heavy and retains heat well but can cause a buildup of heat on and around the stove.

Stove Cleaning and Maintenance

• Avoid abrasive cloths and cleaners on the stainless steel or the casing as that can cause scratches
• Wipe up spills and messes as quickly as is safely possible to avoid staining. Remember, the grates get hot while in use so wait for them to cool down before touching or cleaning
• The grate can be removed for easier cleaning. To remove the grate, squeeze together the center grates, pull the grate to one side then tilt up the side with the released pressure. To replace the grate, align one side then place the second side down while pulling up on the center grates. This allows the whole grate to bend slightly so it can reseat snugly. It is easiest to do this while standing to the side of the stove.

Please refer to the ENO stove component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here.

Ignition switch doesn’t click

• Dead ignition battery > Refer to the stove operating manual for ignition battery replacement
• Ignition switch faulty or damaged > If the switch was working then it stopped and changing the battery did not resolve it there may be an issue with the ignition switch itself. Replace the ignition switch.
• Wires come loos connecting igniter > pull out the stove drawer and utensil drawer, look under to find the stove components. Push in all connecters to and from the burner so they are snug.

Stove won’t light

• No propane/propane tank closed > Make sure the propane tank is open and sufficiently full
• Loss of propane line pressure / air in propane lines > If you recently replaced your propane tank, you may need to rebuild pressure in the lines. Move the burner dials to the open position and leave them open for 1-2 minutes until you can start to smell propane. Be sure to give some time for the purged propane to dissipate. Then re-hit the ignition switch to light. It may take a couple of tries for it to reignite.

Stove drawer slides won’t lock

• Debris/dirt in slides > Use a dry cleaner/lubricant to clean the bearings/slides. We recommend PTFE dry lube
• Drawer slides aren’t pulling far enough out > Try giving the drawer a nice firm yank straight out (along the line of the slides). There are two sets of locking triangles for each drawer - one at the back and one in the middle. Both sets of triangles should be tilted in the down position when locked. The back triangles should be able to pull out about 12” from the back of the slide.
• Drawer sides can’t pull out far enough > If you have done all the above steps and the back triangles still cannot pull to 12” from the back of the slide, contact [email protected] for more advanced troubleshooting.

Stove has a low flame

• Low propane flow > If the propane tank is full and the Truma is working, there could be a low flow issue of propane through the regulator. Reset the pressure safety valve on the regulator. To reset the regulator, close the propane tank, make sure all propane appliances are off, wait 5 minutes, SLOWLY reopen the propane tank and relight the stove. If the flame is still low then physically detach the propane regulator from the tank, wait 2-3 minutes then reinstall the regulator to the tank, making sure it is positioned correctly. SLOWLY reopen the tank and relight the stove.
• Propane leak > If you turn off the tank and Truma and smell propane there could be a leak in the system. Using a water and soap mixture, spray all propane line connection points then turn on the propane. If there is a leak the water/soap mixture will start to bubble. Contact [email protected] for further instructions on fixing any detected leaks.

Potential Cause: Misconfiguration/calibration of the water tank sensor

Potential Solution: Completely fill or drain the water tank then use the SiMarine Manual (can be found in the Documents Center) to reset the water level on the water tank menu.

The TOPO2 has a 12V electrical system which is powered by either one or two 100 amp-hour lithium batteries as well as a 140W solar panel.

Accessing

The battery/electrical utility closet is located behind the modular shelves in the galley.

1. Open hatch
2. Remove all modular shelves from the cabinet area behind the table by either sliding out the shelves, or pulling up and out the dividers
3. Remove the back access panel by sliding is straight toward the back of trailer
4. Set all removable HDPE pieces aside

Helpful Hint: Until you are familiar with each modular piece either take a photo of the configuration you want or as you remove pieces, stack them in the order in which you remove them. This will put them in the same order that you want to replace them in.

To close up the electrical utility closet, reverse the above instructions:

1. Slide the door panel straight back
2. Replace the modular shelves and dividers

Contents

The utility closet contains all your electrical needs. See the photos below for a visualization with the numbers in parenthesis corresponding to the label on the photos. Starting in the top driver corner going from driver side to passenger you will see:

• The SiMarine sensor panel (1) - connected to the water tank bobber as well as the inverter/on-board battery charger. It is a black rectangle with a pulsing green light if it is functioning
• Fuse block (2) - See “Fuse Block” for additional information
• On-board battery charger (3A) OR Inverter (3B) - see each component section respectively for additional information
• Batteries - either in a single (4A) or double (4B) configuration. These batteries are bolted down via the solid rods on each end. See the battery section for additional information.

Fuse Block

The fuse block is located in the middle of the electrical utility closet.

• To remove the cover: grasp the sides of the clear cover, push down on the yellow tab and pull straight out.
• To replace the cover: position the cover over the center of the block and push in until you hear a click. Make sure there are no cords blocking the connection between the block and the cover.

The fuse block is labeled with the fuse size then the component it is attached to.

• To remove fuses: with two fingers grasp each side of the fuse and pull straight out.
• To reinsert fuses: with two fingers, grasp each side of the fuse and reinsert the two prongs into the holes. Be sure it is fully inserted.
• Replacement Fuses: Escapod recommends using automotive blade fuses. Be sure to replace the fuse with the exact amperage noted on the fuse block.

A good fuse has a see-through center with an intact wire connecting the two sides. A bad or blown fuse will have the center be black/cloudy and/or the wire not connecting the two sides.

Below is a close up of the fuse block label with the number being the fuse size, and the text being the corresponding part on the trailer. If your sticker is slightly different or shows a different fuse size, please use this label for all future fuse changes.

NOTE: Individual electrical appliances may also have their own internal fuses. Please refer to component manuals for location, size, and replacement needs for these specific fuses if you need to troubleshoot electrical problems.

Shore power is a term which comes from the marine world and refers to the ability to provide external power to a boat while at dock while its main engines are shut down. What this means for your TOPO2 is there is an outlet on the outside of your trailer which is compatible with a standard three-prong, 120V, grounded cord. This cord allows your batteries to charge through either the inverter or on-board battery charger via an external power source be it a portable generator or house power. The shore power port is located on the driver side of the trailer above the fender. It is under a protective rubber cap labeled “NOCO.”

On-Board Battery Charger/Converter

Your TOPO2 comes standard with a Progressive Dynamics on-board battery charger. This part is replaced if you upgrade to the inverter which also has charging capabilities. The on-board battery charger is configured from the factory to safely charge lithium batteries. This unit converts the 120V AC shore power into the 12V DC power your trailer runs on. To activate the on-board battery charger, all you need to do is plug the trailer into shore power via the external NOCO plug. If the battery is in need of any charging, you will hear the charger motor automatically turn on and once the battery is fully charged it will automatically turn off. In order to charge the battery(ies) via shore power the master battery cut-off switch must be turned to “On/Green.”

Please refer to the Progressive Dynamics battery charger component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here.

Inverter (Optional)

As an optional upgrade, we offer a 2000W Inverter-Charger. This is in direct replacement of the on-board battery charger. In addition to charging your batteries via the NOCO shore power port, the inverter changes the 12V DC (direct current) power that your trailer runs off of into 120V AC (alternating current) power which is accessible through the outlets. In short, you can use the outlets in your trailer and pull the power directly from your batteries without being attached to shore power. Inverters do not extend the life of your batteries or increase the power of your batteries. It just converts the electrical current from one form to another. The 2000W inverters can handle up to 2000W of power draw at one time.

Helpful Hint: When determining what to plug into your outlets, you want to be aware of two power draws: 1) the initial surge power to get the appliance up and running and 2) the in use or maintenance draw the appliance requires to keep running. You want to make sure the sum of all those draws does not exceed 2000 watts.

In January 2023, we changed inverter manufacturers so depending on when your trailer was built, it may have either the Xantrex or Kisae inverter. Overall functionality, performance and user experience under standard conditions is equal between the two options.

Inverting Mode

To begin inverting or using the outlets while not attached to shore power, all you need to do is turn the Inverter (INV) switch on inside the cabin and have the master battery switch turned to “On/Green”. That’s it. To prevent phantom draws on your battery system from the inverter, if you are not using the outlets, it is recommended to turn off the inverter via this toggle switch.

Charging Mode

To have the inverter go to charging mode so you can charge your batteries through the shore power port, all you need to do is plug the trailer into shore power. You will hear the fan on the inverter kick on and it will charge until the battery reads as full. In order to charge the battery(ies) via shore power the master battery cut-off switch must be turned to “On/Green.” The inverter toggle switch in the cabin does not need to be turned on for the battery to charge.

Xantrex Specific Information

Escapod needs to do some initial programming of the Xantrex when we install them into trailers. Below are the programming settings. If there is something not right with your inverter, check the programming settings or if you need to do a hard Xantrex reset, use the table below to reconfigure to Escapod settings. The programming screen for the Xantrex is located on the unit itself and is not very easy to read or access.

The programming Escapod does at the factory only changes two settings on the Xantrex inverter:

01 = Auto (looks like AtO on the screen)

20 = LFP (for Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries)

To change or check settings:

1. Hold down the “OK” button until a two digit number flashing in the center of the screen, about 5 seconds - this is your settings menu. It will beep at you, that’s okay.
2. While the screen is flashing 01 - hit the OK button to enter that settings menu -
   1. This will lock 01 in place and move the selector to the options within that menu
   2. Use the up arrow (center rectangle button) until the second group of letters says AtO
   3. Hit the “OK” button to confirm the selection
   4. Hit ESC (top rectangle button) to go back out of the settings menu.
3. Follow the above process with settings screen 20
   1. Set the option to LFP which is your battery type
4. Note: there is only an up button (no down button) so if you pass menu option 20 (or your desired menu option), you will need to cycle through all the options again until you hit 20 (or the selection you want.

Kisae Specific Information

Escapod needs to do some initial programming of the Kisae at the factory. Below are the programming settings. If there is something not right with your inverter, check the programming settings or reset to the below settings should you need to do a Kisae factory reset to default. The screen to program the Kisae is independent from the actual inverter and will be located in the utensil drawer with the corresponding connection cord.

To Plug in the Screen:

Use the cord shown below to connect the handheld screen to the inverter. Oh the back of the screen insert the cord into the “Remote” port and insert the cord into the “Remote” port on the inverter.

Kisae Inverter Programming Settings

Function > ABU (Default)

Load Sense > Off (Default)

Audible Buzzer > On

Charger > On

Battery Type > LI (Lithium)

Bulk Current > BUL 100 12V/2000W, 40A

Bulk Absorption Voltage > 14.2

Absorption to Float Current > 12V/2000W, 15A

Float Voltage > 13.5

Receivable Voltage > 12.8V (Default)

Battery Temp > NOR (Default)

AC Input Circuit Breaker > 30A (Default)

Please refer to the inverter component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here. Xantrex 2000W Inverter, Kisae 2000W Inverter-Charger

The TOPO2 comes equipped with a systems monitoring unit from SiMarine. This unit monitors your:

• Battery life
• Water tank level (does not factor in any water in the Truma water container)
• Ambient cabin temperature
  • NOTE: This is an independent system and sensor from the Truma room sensor. Even though the sensors are close in proximity to each other, there is a

potential for a small discrepancy between the system readings

Escapod does an initial programming of the SiMarine systems monitor. However, as you use your trailer it will adjust to the systems and gain increased accuracy over time.

Programming Settings

If your SiMarine Pico settings do get off, which can happen, below is a chart of the settings done at the factory. If you love all the techy aspects of the SiMarine, we recommend reading the SiMarine programming manuals to make sure the system works best for you. To enter the programming or settings menu, press and hold the circle button in the lower right corner until a “Settings” menu appears - 3-5 seconds. Use the up and down arrows to navigate the menus and submenus. Hit the circle button to enter each individual setting menu. Hit the back arrow to go back one screen.

General Settings- Units

• Pressure > InHG
• Temp > F
• Volume > US Gal
• Alt > Feet
• Speed > mph

General Settings Device - Power Management

• Auto Power Off > On
• Power Off Delay > 1m 0s

Devices-Tanks - Tank 1

• Name > Tank 1
• Type > Water
• Sensor Type > Resistance
• Sensor > SC303 1
• Capacity > 21 Gal
• Calibration Points > (SEE SEPARATE BOX)
• Display Priority > High
• Instance > 0

Devices - Tanks - Tank1 - Calibration Points

0 Gal (empty) > 240 ohm

21 gal (full) > 33 ohm

Devices - ohm Meters *

• Write down which meter has a temp on it - 11000-ish)
• Note: Max is 65545 and isn't used

Devices - Batteries - Battery 1

• Name > Battery 1
• Type > LiFeP04
• Capacity C20** > 100Ah OR 200AH
• Capacity C10 > Not set
• Capacity C5 > Not set
• Voltmeter > Pico Internal
• Ammeters*** > SC303
• Temperature Sensor > Not Selected
• Range > 100A
• Advanced Settings > (No Changes Made)
• Instance > 1

Devices - Temp Sensor

• Name > TM1
• Type > NTC 10K
• Device > Enter Ohm Meter Recorded*
• Display Priority > High
• Range Min > 0 C
• Range Max > 212 F
• Calibration > 0.0 c
• Source > Inside
• Instance > 0

Your TOPO2 comes equipped with one 100 Amp-hour lithium battery with the optional upgrade

to a second 100 Amp-hour lithium battery connected in parallel. The batteries are lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) which is currently the best lithium battery chemistry allowing for peak performance. Care and maintenance of the batteries should follow all guidelines from the battery manufacturer. Key points to note about the batteries:

• The batteries are equipped with a Battery Management System (BMS). This protects your batteries from any forces (both internal and external) which may prevent your battery from operating properly. Potential factors include:
  • Short circuiting
  • Over/Undervoltage
  • Overcurrent
  • Thermal protection (not charging if it is too hot or too cold)
  • Unbalanced cells
• Batteries can be charged via shore power through the inverter/on-board battery charger and/or solar through the solar controller. These intermediary components must be configured to Lithium batteries.
• A 200 Amp-hour battery configuration is required if you have the optional inverter and/or air conditioner unit
• The solar panel is connected directly to the batteries which allows it to charge regardless if the battery cut-off switch is turned off or not
• The batteries will only charge if the ambient temperature is between 32 degrees F and 140 degrees F. This constraint is why there are heating vents directed into the utility closet - to ensure the batteries stay warm enough to be able to charge.

Please refer to the Expion360 lithium battery component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here.

Battery Cut-off Switch

Located in the passenger side small closed door compartment is a battery cut-off switch (see “Cabin - Cabinets” for a diagram). This fully disconnects all power being drawn from the battery. It does not disconnect the solar panel from the battery. We recommend turning this switch to red/off when the trailer is not in use for extended periods to prevent phantom draws on the battery.

Removal

The TOPO2 was designed so that you do not need to remove the batteries. The only time you would need to remove the battery(ies) is if you want to replace them or if you are storing the trailer in an environment with an unsafe internal temperature. A safe internal temperature is anything less than 120 degrees F.

The TOPO is equipped with multiple lights and light sources.

• Tongue box white LED light - activated by the toggle switch on the passenger side of the light
• External (Porch) lights - two white LED porch lights (one on each side of the trailer to the hatch side of the doors) - activated by the toggle switch labeled “EXT” next to the SiMarine systems control panel.
• Cabin lights - two dimmable white LED light strips are located inside the cabin above the doors - activated by the turnable dimmer switch labeled “INT” next to the SiMarine systems control panel.
• Galley light - one LED white/red light strip is located in the ceiling of the hatch - activated by the 3-way toggle switch to the passenger side of the galley face labeled “WHT/RED”
• Frame ground lights - four (4) white, oval LED lights mounted to the frame to provide ground illumination - one under each of the doors and two under the back hatch. They are activated by the toggle switch labeled “RR” next to the SiMarine systems control panel. The “RR” stands for “rock rail” but the lights are present on all trailers, regardless if you have the rock rail add-on.
• Driving - Four driving tail lights are located on the back of the hatch and are controlled by the 7-pin connector to your tow vehicle

The TOPO2 has a variety of plugs strategically placed throughout the trailer to allow you to access electrical power.

• USB - There are two (2), two-plug USB ports located in the cabin - one on each of the night stands. They have a rubber cover to prevent dirt and debris from entering the plugs.
• 12V - A single 12V plug is located in the food storage compartment in the galley in order to power the optional Fridge/Freezer.
• Wireless Charging Pads - There are two (2) wireless charging pads located in the cabin - one on each of the night stands. Your device(s) and any accompanying case(s) must be compatible with wireless charging.
• 110 Outlets - Two (2), 110-volt outlets installed in your trailer:
  • A GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) which protects your electrical system from overloading is located in the cabin in the passenger side cubby of the smaller cabinets.
  • A standard 110-volt dual plug outlet is located in the galley, behind the table, in the upper driver side compartments.
    

NOTE: While every trailer is equipped with outlets, unless you have the optional inverter installed, the outlets will only work while hooked up to shore power. The inverter allows the outlets to work off the battery alone.

Problem - Potential Cause - Potential Solution

• SiMarine not reading correct water tank levels
  • Misconfiguration/calibration of the water tank sensor > Completely fill or drain the water tank then use the SiMarine manual to reset the water level on the water tank menu. Note the SiMarine will only read the water level in the water tank and does not take into account any water in the Truma.
• SiMarine not reading correct battery levels
  • Misconfiguration/calibration of the battery sensor > Keep the trailer plugged into shore power overnight until you are positive the battery should be full. Use the SiMarine manual to reset the battery level on the battery menu. Note: The SiMarine will take a few charge/discharge cycles to learn consumption rates. Accuracy should improve over time.
  • Solar panel charge is not being diverted through the SiMarine. > If the current coming off the solar panel/solar controller does not pass through the SiMarine it will not record the charge even though charging is happening. Contact [email protected] for further details and instructions to move this wire safely if the negative wire is connected directly to the battery.
• No power to the trailer
  • Battery cutoff switch is turned to “Off/Red” > Make sure the battery cut-off switch in the cabin is turned to “On/Green.”
  • Battery(ies) are not charged > Plug the trailer into shore power, making sure the plug is firmly inserted and the extension cord is providing power.
  • The battery(ies) are too cold/hot to discharge power > See the Expion360 battery component manual for more details, but the battery(ies) must be kept above 32 degrees F and below 140 degrees F for them to perform properly. If you can, plug into shore power and turn on the Truma to get warm air into the electrical closet or cool down the electrical closet.
  • Batteries are disconnected > If you removed your batteries, check to make sure they are properly reinstalled. This is extremely uncommon.
• No power to specific components
  • Fuse in the fuse block or individual component (if present) is blown or broken > Check the appropriate fuse in the fuse block and replace if needed. Refer to the individual component manuals for locations of component specific fuses.
• Everything is off and SiMarine is still showing an amp draw.
  • Something on your trailer is on. > Make sure everything is turned off - lights, inverter, ARB, etc. If this is the case then your amp draw as detected by the SiMarine Battery 1 screen should be less than .2 amps
  • Your Kisae inverter is still live and supplying power to the outlets. > If you recently unplugged from shore power and your outlets are still drawing a current, turn the inverter on then off via the toggle switch in the cabin. This will reset the power circuit.
  • Your Xantrex inverter is still live and supplying power to the outlets. > If you recently unplugged from shore power and your outlets are still drawing a current, there is a programming issue with the Xantrex. Contact [email protected] for further programming help.
  • You have a phantom draw somewhere in your trailer if the issue is not the inverter. > Go to the fuse block and systematically remove fuses one at a time while watching what the SiMarine is reading as the amp draw from the Battery 1 screen. When the amp draw goes below .4 amps, plug back in the most recently removed fuse to see it go back up. If you don’t want the draw, keep the fuse removed and contact [email protected] for further troubleshooting.
• Solar panel not seeming to charging the battery
  • Solar panel not securely plugged in. > Make sure the plug on the hatch is securely inserted. If the solar controller is showing a voltage, then there is charge happening.
  • Solar controller is flashing a blue light > This indicates a low solar power current. Move the panel into direct sunlight
  • SiMarine is not showing the solar charge. > Make sure the negative solar controller wire is connected to the SiMarine tracking shunt. If the current coming off the solar panel/solar controller does not pass through the SiMarine it will not record the charge even though charging is happening. Contact [email protected] for further details and instructions to move this wire safely.

The TOPO2 comes standard with a Lightleaf 140W solar panel attached to the outside of the hatch and is connected directly to the battery(ies). Be sure to secure the panel prior to moving. The solar panel comes with an additional 12’ extension cord which allows you to park your trailer in the shade, and move your solar panel to a sunny spot for optimal charging.

Mounting/Unmounting

To unmount/remove your solar panel:

1. Disconnect the cord from the SAE outlet in the hatch
2. Twist the three knobs at the bottom of the panel half turn (180 degrees in either direction)
3. Grasp the sides of the panel, tilt out slightly and gently pull down to release from the top mounts
   1. The solar panel is EXTREMELY LIGHT (but super durable) so don’t pull a muscle expecting something heavy once it is separated from the hatch!

To mount your solar panel:

1. Make sure the bottom knobs are open (twisted parallel to the ground)
2. Insert the top of the panel into the channel brackets toward the top of the hatch
3. Rest the bottom of the panel on the three bottom mounting brackets
4. Twist the bottom three knobs half turn (180 degrees) so that the top of the knob overlaps the bottom of the solar panel.
5. Plug in the SAE cord to connect the panel to the solar controller/battery.

Helpful Hint: For added security, attach a small lock (luggage locks work great) through the holes on the bottom center knobs.

Your solar panel and its interaction with the rest of the battery system is controlled by a 10 amp Zamp solar controller. This has been programmed to charge lithium batteries and is located in the small passenger side closed door compartment in the cabin. The solar controller indicates when the battery is receiving a charge current via the solar panel and will also show the voltage of the battery. You can use this number with the reading on the SiMarine to check the overall charge of your battery. As mentioned, this is a 12V system (regardless if you have one battery or two) so use the chart below for a general idea of voltages in relation to battery charge.

Voltage > State of Charge

12.6+ > 100%

12.5 > 90%

12.42 >80%

12.32 > 70%

12.20 > 60%

12.06 > 50%

11.9 > 40%

11.75 > 30

11.58 > 20%

11.31 > 10%

10.05 > 0%

We do not recommend daisy-chaining additional panels together for additional solar power as it will overload the controller. If you do connect multiple panels together, you must install a different solar controller that can accommodate the increased load capacity. NOTE: Damage caused to your trailer due to changing out parts to accommodate aftermarket upgrades may void your warranty.

Please refer to the Zamp solar controller component manual for important feature and functionality information not listed here.

Camping Tip: We recommend getting a mini-pad lock to lock your solar panel at the center pivot clasp while traveling if you are planning to charge your batteries via solar while driving. If you don’t want to charge while driving, we recommend disconnecting your solar panel and storing it in the cabin during transport.